Scratchy McB. 90 2200 mild re-build

I got my parts back! I'm allot poorer, and more excited to get this project moving again! Here's my block. Put it on the stand and put on the first coat of paint. Two coats of clear over this should do it.



crank re-machined to .01 under on rods and mains


new NPR pistons .020 over


new rings, con rod, and main bearings


The fun begins....

My B2200's hummin' 1.5 years after I installed NPR pistons and rings, standard size....you did more "by the book correctly", so you should be even more satisfied

Yeah, but you probably saved a pretty penny too.

So, I got the bottom end together last night. Here's the paint after the clear coat:


Main bearings installed:


Main cap bearings:


Crank in it's new home:


Main Bearing caps torqued:


Sorry, skipped some pic opportunities, but with the help of some friends and some beer, managed to get all of the rings gap checked, installed in the pistons, and the pistons installed in the block:


Here's the guts all torqued to spec:


windage tray, oil pickup, and pan will be next. As far as I can tell, I should use gasket sealer and not bother with the cork pan gasket. I've never had good luck with any of those. Are there any rubber gaskets on the market?

Most do without a pan gasket and use Ultra Grey sealant instead. That's what Axel Breaker and I have done as well. This has worked well for me.

Sounds good. Thanks!

I have a question about front covers. When you put a 2.0 head on a 2.2, what front cover are you supposed to use? The only option I see currently is to cut down my 2.2 to fit the 2.0 head, because they are significantly different. Or I have some wacky JDM front cover:




here they are side by side with their respective cam gears. The JDM Head has a die cast cam gear as well. I haven't checked, but hopefully the heads have the same cam height. If they aren't the same, I would have some serious timing problems.


As I took the head apart to inspect it, I was less and less enthusiastic about the "re-build" done by the shop in Auburn. They sand blasted the head to prep it, and in the process blasted the cam bearings right along with it. WTF? Who the hell does that?


Oh, well, not the end of the world.
I also ended up having to take the whole valve train out and clean everything through and through, because they didn't. At all.

They removed the cam, faced it, did a valve job, and replaced the valve train. I guess I should have looked closer when I bought this thing. It still had lots of sand in the water jacket from the blasting, and I wasn't about to let this crap migrate into the oil feed system.


Why bother to bag something up like it's clean when there's freaking sand in the bag? I'm pissed. But It's clean now, and on the block.

i think u gotta use the 2.2 distributor housing or front plate (what ever its called)on the 2.0 head. the rest should line up

Have you ever heard of anyone having to trim the bottom of the cover to get it to fit?

valve cover? or front cover? (distributor housing?) ive read a lot about the swap and I haven't read anything about having to trim anything. I hope I don't need to cause im about to start the swap tonight when I get home. so far I know that to swap heads, u have to use the front plate or distributor housing, what ever u want to call it, and the rest should line up. oh and use the 2.2 timing belt cause its longer. other than that, it said that the 2.0 head use less oil and that either the block or gasket had an oil restrictor pressed into it. being that some places in the head get more oil than others, this isn't a big deal, the oil will spread more evenly if theres more being pumped in. no ones ever had any trouble with too much oil but to be safe, I got the gasket for the 2.0, they look exactly the same tho.