Scratchy McB. 90 2200 mild re-build

Pulled the engine down from the stand this morning, and got to the back of it. Installed a new pilot bearing. I "borrowed" a puller and slide hammer from Oreily's auto. I had to drive the pin out of the puller to get the arms in past the inner bearing race, and re- assemble it while it was installed. It was obvious somebody did this before to the tool.


drove the new one in with a 26mm socket


It was nice of Mazda to provide provisins for torquing the flywheel bolts


used a 10mm deep socket in the pilot bearing,


and a bigger one in the clutch. Pushed them together while i tightened it, and they pretty much self centered. All I could think of without an alignment tool:


Here she is ready to go!

well, here she is boys and girls. Shout out to Ryan, Rhett, and Nick for all of their hard work yesterday. I that process would have sucked by myself! She's runnin' pretty smooth. Got the timing and idle set, now it's test and tune time. It's going to be nice to bring back the hoist Marko lent me in the back of a truck instead of dis-assembled in the back of my Rabbit!

I've got a question:
If you look at the pic below, there is a hole immediately to the right of the oil filter, which I now know is the pressurized oil feed port (for your oil pressure sender). I didn't realize that, and I screwed the pressure sender into the hole directly above it. Needless to say upon initial startup, I made a huge mess in the driveway, followed by lots of cursing. ALWAYS have a friend there to watch when you first start your engine in case of any leaks! Anyway, we caught it in time, and I plugged the pressure sending hole temporarily with an aftermarket sending unit. Now my question is, what is supposed to go in the hole directly above the filter just to the left of the freeze plug? The reason I stuck the sender in there is because I saw it goes into a passageway in the block, and I made the wrong assumption. I can't see it in my dis-assembly photos, because the wiring harness blocks it.

damn. looks clean as shit. nice rebuild

Thanks! It's nice to finally get to what I really like to do. Gonna order a wideband o2 today, so I can really do a proper tune on the carb. I like the stuff Innovate Motorsports makes, and you can output it to a old ass laptop (mine) to do data logging with their included software. Geek out!

Inspiring. I'm getting started on my first rebuild on my 90 2200... great pics!

Good luck B2200-fireburner, let me know if I can help you with anything.
So the next project is to figure out why my fuel gauge isn't working. It's probably going to be a bed-lifting, sending unit replacing affair. Not really looking forward to it.

On these, almost always the issue is with the fuel sender. Tilting the truck bed is not that bad though, I wrote a tutorial with photos in the Repair Tech section here.

After fixing my old sender twice, I opted for a factory replacement sender from , and that still works fine.

Found it, thanks cusser. You're right, it doesn't look too bad.

Been busy this week. The weather has finally gotten nice, so I've been putting time in on the truck before work. I put some new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks o the front. Mine were the originals from 1990. Needless to say they were shot. The KYBs are a little bigger in diameter, and allot sexier. I was surprised how light shocks are, because every car I've had used to struts. they have to be much stouter to take all of the chassis loading. on the trucks, it's all put into the a-arms, and the shock is isolated so it can do its work bind free. I like that.

once the old shock was out, and the top of the new shock was tightened on it's perch (enough to deflect the bushings just little) the bottom can be easily pryed up into position with a pry bar.

throw the bolt though and tighten her up! Easiest suspension job I have ever done. Took about 15 minutes per side from wheel off to wheel on.


I also got my Innovate Motorsports Wideband installed so I can monitor the effects of carb and ignition tuning on the AFR.

installation was very straight forward, and the instructions were excellent, and very thorough. I was impressed. I was also happy to find a huge grommet in the firewall right where I needed it . Zip tied the controller to the harness, ran the wires into the cab, and drilled a couple of small holes for the wires and reset circuit. Here's how it looks all buttoned up:

I still need to figure out how to mount the gauge properly. I want it down and out of the way (discreet) but where I can still glance at it while driving. This is the best spot I can find. So it will be 3M tape for a little while until i get irritated by it
I'm also doing this in an attempt to tune it well enough to pass emissions with the Weber installed. I gotta test in October. With a bit of driving around, I leaned out the idle circuit quite a bit from what I thought was correct. It sits around 15:1 at idle now. I everything seems pretty good until the secondary opens, and I get a flat spot right there. My meter goes lean there as well. I've seen it jump as high as 19:1 for a second. But no detonation. My timing is conservative at 8 degrees BTDC. Future plans include hooking up a TPS of some sort, and logging ignition, TPS, and AFR simultaneously. If I know when certain carb circuits open (TPS), I can tell which circuit I am using or transitioning into, and understand my carb better. I'm still keeping the engine under 3 grand most of the time for break in. I have about 175 miles on the new engine at this point. It's driving me nuts. The few times I have "accidentally" taken it to 4 grand, good things happened .