Zanzer's 1986 B2000

Just scored 2 more 5200's for $41.44 shipped

REALLY hoping one is an Economaster. That would give me one of each to play around with.

the one with all the wires look like it could be.

^^ That's what I'm thinking (hoping) too since it's a true Holley. It has "Holley" cast on the fuel inlet and has an electric choke instead of the standard DFAV water choke. Although, a lot of the Economasters came with the water choke too....so it's just a guessing game until I can have a look at the primary booster and see if it has the second ring.

I'm thinking the Holley looks fairly complete and rebuildable so maybe all it needs is a kit and use the other one, which looks like a Motocraft DFAV, for parts to complete my Motorcraft DFAV.

Pulled a late one last night. I was going to go over to a buddy's shop and hang out but I wanted to do a quick oil change first. My friend said just bring it to his shop and we'd do it there...then I said "wanna do some valve stem seals too?" LOL

I've been wanting to replace them just to see if it helps the smoking issue. The engine definitely needed a set, the old ones were hard as a rock. I also found that the oil valley in the head needs a lot of work. They have very inadequate drain-back and hold at least half a quart of oil after the engine is drained.

I still think the 2.0 has some life left in it because the more I work with it, the better it runs. Plus that buys me more time before I do the swap... and some of it is just personal curiosity to see if an engine that has been written off can actually be brought back to life with a little TLC.

I also discovered the factory ignition system is total crap and requires a good bit of juice from the electrical system to operate properly. I'd love to know how many amps the stock system pulls. I'm thinking of temporarily installing a Crane Fireball HI-6 setup I have before installing the Holley 5200 since the Crane only pulls 7 amps with a minimum operating voltage of 6 volts. Plus I think it would be interesting to see how it compares to the EDIS-4 I'm installing later.

Been tinkering on the truck for the last few days. I got the Crane HI-6 installed (finally). I've installed this system on a few other vehicles but they've always been V8's with a Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. On the first attempt on this truck I forgot that I had to run the cylinder select wire since it's a 4 cylinder (V8's don't use it)...no biggy, just a few more minutes to pull the wires and route that one. Got everything installed and went to fire the truck...nothing. Checked the instructions and though maybe I needed to wire it more like a ECM controlled system since it's a feedback carb....nope, still nothing. Then "the voice" spoke to me. Y'know...that little voice in your head that always like to point out your mistakes at the very last minute? Ya, that one. And "the voice" said; "hey Mark, Mazda's use a magnetic pickup in the distributor so neither of your configurations are going to work. As a matter of fact, your entire wiring scheme is wrong. You need to run the mag pickup wires instead of the Hall Effect pickup wires". Me = Facepalm.

So as soon as I remembered that little fact I also remembered that I would have to modify a distributor to work with the Crane box. You have to remove the module and just use the signal from the mag pickup. On some vehicles this is simple because you just jump out the module. On others it can be "hell on Earth". The Mazda falls somewhere in between since the pickup is mounted to the back of the module and they share the same mounting screws. Luckily I had a spare dizzy I could modify and just swap out. While I was at it I went ahead and completely disassembled everything, cleaned it up, re-greased it all with new lithium grease, and rebuilt the advance unit.

Here it is with the module removed and jumpered. I like for things to look as close to factory as possible so I used heat shrink on the connectors and I used blue and black wires to match the factory colors.



In this pic you can see the standoffs I used to make up for the missing module. The module tabs are .232" thick so I worked the standoffs down to a .235" height.



A pic of the inside with everything back in place.



All cleaned up and ready for installation.



I got everything installed and fired the truck up and it idles super smooth. The best it's ever been! If I had known it was this much of a difference I would have installed the Crane box when I first got the truck. The big problem now? AFR is horrible. This thing is all over the place. It's pig rich at idle but goes as lean as a supermodel right of idle. The truck runs ok but you can definitely tell it wants more fuel. I tried installing a Nikki for a 2.2 and it's better but it still doesn't like it.

Also, I assume the previous owner has no clue as to how an engine is supposed to operate. When I pulled the carb I found that it was missing a base plate gasket. I was really hoping this is where the lean condition was coming from but no such luck. I also found that the truck idled a little high and the idle screw had no effect on it. I ran it all the way out and the idle just would not come down. I figured I had a vacuum leak somewhere and upon spraying carb cleaner around all the gaskets I found a leak on the intake at cylinder 4. I removed the intake to find that the previous owner had installed a new gasket without completely scraping off the old one. Again, I hoped THIS was where my lean condition was coming from....but no.

While I had the intake off I put the intake gasket in place and found a huge mismatch between the ports and the gasket and I decided to match them up better. Here's a couple of shots of the "in frame" port matching.





I also did the intake while I had it off.




I got everything back together and now I can idle the truck down to almost nothing. But it still has the off idle lean condition. I tried adjusting the mixture screw but that doesn't have much effect. I figure I've gone as far with the feedback Nikki as I can and it's now time to install the Holley 5200.

I received the other 2 carbs I bought off Ebay yesterday. 1 is a no name Weber copy that has no details of manufacturer on it whatsoever. It doesn't say "Weber", "Holley", or "Motorcraft" on it anywhere so I have no clue as to what it really is. It doesn't really matter anyway because the mounting flange is completely jacked up. I'd love to know what they tried to bolt this thing to in order to bend it so bad. And unfortunately the 2nd carb isn't an Economaster as I had hoped. It's actually a Holley 6520 with an electronic power valve. That could be fun to play with but I don't really feel like building a PWM circuit for it right now...maybe later. But either way, with these I should have some of the parts needed to get my original 5200 closer to completion.

I'll be working on that for the next few days so I can finally ditch the Nikki.

I ended up disconnecting the HI-6 for now. The truck developed a dead miss and after looking at some schematics it looks as if the ECM likes to have a tach signal to help control the feedback carb. So it looks like I got to the point of removing stuff until the ECM just said "that's it! I'm out! Good luck".


So in the meantime I've went back to the stock ignition system until I get the 5200 rebuilt. I did however pull this old monster off the shelf and install it...for shock value if nothing else LOL



I also decided it was time to install my Ebay Chinese H4 conversion headlights. I'm tired of driving by lamplight at night. I also did a few other little aesthetic mods while I was at it.

Since most of the paint was missing from the grill emblem, I went ahead and "chromed it out". Too bad the plating underneath is oxidized. Although I think it looks better than the white paint on it originally. I also think it and the new lights will look much better when I paint and install the new grill.






I was tired of my corner marker lights always looking so dingy so while I had them off I cleaned up the buckets and painted the drab tan with some more reflective silver. That seemed to brighten them up a bit with the lenses reinstalled.




I also started working on the 5200. Hopefully all my parts should be here this week.




And here's the Ebay specials installed I decided to go ahead and wire up the halos (but opted out on the city lights LOL). I figured if nothing else they may come in handy for DRL's while driving at dusk and dawn. They're kind of growing on me

I gotta say the H4's are way better than the old headlights. I still need to aim them but illumination has definitely improved over the old lights.



The mother ship is landing

How did you get the 626 head and the DIS system to work.

I haven't installed it yet. My plan has been to get the original 2.0 running good on what's left of he factory system, then install the Holley 5200 and get it running good with that setup, then install the EDIS-4 system on the 2.0 and make sure it works properly with the old engine.

During this time I'm rebuilding the 12V engine and fabbing the intake needed for the swap. That way when it comes time to swap the engine I already have the ignition system operating somewhat correctly and all I have to do is swap in the new engine and connect everything to it. I'm trying to keep the variables to a minimum in case something doesn't want to play well I can keep the troubleshooting to a minimum.

I started work on rebuilding the vintage 1970 Holley 5200 last night. You can tell it hasn't seen service in some time and definitely needs some TLC.

Here's a few before shots taken during tear down.











It was also missing some linkages. I'm using parts from a no name Weber (seriously, there's not a single manufacturer name on it anywhere), a Holley 6520, and various bellcranks I removed from cars I have in my small junkyard.





Johnny 5 disassemble!

Here's a shot of everything after the first round of cleaning.




Next I'll focus on giving it "the treatment". Basically the same stuff I used to do on Holley 4150/4160/4500 4 barrel carbs where I polish out the venturis and boosters to gain a little flow and make it way easier to clean on the vehicle. Plus I go through everything with brass and stainless steel brushes to make sure all ports are spotless and free flowing. I also remove all the casting flash and sharp edges on the inside and outside of the carb body, I don't really care for sharp stuff when I have my hands wrapped around parts under the hood.

This carb could stand to have the shafts bushed due to excessive throttle shaft play but I'm going to hold off on that for now in case I need to go in a different direction. If the 5200 works well it's fairly easy to remove it and install shaft bushings later.

After the carb is all back together I'll focus on fabricating an adapter plate that will also incorporate a 1" spacer.



Buckle up! I have a ton of pics coming soon!

Z

Wow. I wish I had half knowledge you have. Then maybe I could get my carb dialed in. Love reading the updates!