more drop!

take the 3 bolts out of your balljoint brackets on the lower control arm and move the bracket to the top side of the control arm and put the bolts back in. Same for the uppwe control arm, except it has 4 smaller bolts holding it on.

oh, and don't forget to remove the bumpstops because they will hit and it will be rougher.

take the bump stops out if you want to.. I did that and I was hitting metal on metal and it did not sound good at all so I trimmed them and put them back. hell I tuck twenties that's good enough for me on a static. I'm 4 inch blocked and monoed in the rear and just torsioned in the front

i may try the torsion a bit and see where it leaves me. as mentioned i can always turn em back.

i just realized that my sway bar bushings are all chewed up and wasted so i may also replace those too while im down there..... ill try the mono leaf setup too once i get my drop leafs......

i wouldnt even spend the money on drop leafs. I put that 4 inch block in took out the bumps in the rear and took out the middle spring and im pretty low. Here are some pics when i had my 17s on.

So, you guys that are going with a static drop are only using lowering blocks in the rear, and cranked torsions...can you reall get 3 inches of drop just by cranking down the torsion bars??? well, that and this ball joint flip that i have to check out. how low can you go on the 88 yota without hitting the bump stop..i dont mind trimming it a little, but i would rather not run the risk of rubbing metal, im not sure if i can accomplish that, i am going for a low drop on a very tight budget afterall.

i didnt do a ball joint flip. That is all torsion. I cut my bumpstops down to about 1/4 inch or so. Ride is ok. I used a 4 in block in the rear.

can you turn okay? thats what im kinda worried about, toyotas already have the turning radius of a cement truck...im worried about rubbing...

can you turn okay? thats what im kinda worried about, toyotas already have the turning radius of a cement truck...im worried about rubbing...