bags or juice

Originally posted by AON-OFFDAHOOK



Most the stuff out there is the same (pumps/dumps), yet I like prohopper comp cylinders as they are triple sealed with a polypak (type of seal with a groove which spreads out when pressurized).

Tony, although you can have everything with 1 pump, I reccommend a 2 pump 4 dump for you because if you tee off the lines you'll get some serious sway. Just don't wire in sides. And yes, you'll use an accumulator per corner. You can run 2 batteries and you'll be fine...

on top of that, a 12 volt setup IS possible. That's not going to be VERY fast, but it will get you off the ground fast enough. OF course this is "hearsay" as I was talking on lay it low. Noone went against the guys word...and that forum is notorious for calling people out! I'd take it for what it's worth. I'll be running 2 pump 4 dump with 8 inch cylinders all around. Probably run accumulators only on the back as the front has some actual weight on it.... Prolly wont run coils on the back, bu I will up front. That SHOULD save the ride up front.

Edited: 9/8/2008 2:10:46 PM by e10pvmt

ok so that would be 2 batteries in addition to the main vehicle battery correct?....and as for cylinder size....how is it measured...collapsed or stroke? also when it comes to maintenance how often is it necessary....like changing fluid, anyseals that are in the kit, solenoids, etc? and as for cost.....am i lookin roughly at a wash when it comes to air vs juice for the setup i am looking for?

you may get away cheaper on juice. a cce setup is 899 for a 2 pump setup and black street cylinders. of course there is ridiculous amounts of upgrading that can be done but same goes for air.

and you should probably run 4 batteries, either 12 or 24 volt for a not THAT fast setup or u could run 24 on front and 12 on rear, each end off 2 batteries. either way it works. that way your rear doesnt pop up that fast. i've READ 36 pops it up pretty quick. the more batteries, the more play time is how i understand it.

An 8" cylinder usually means 8" of stroke (not the cylinder housing). You can run a 12v system, but I'd keep it out of your car battery and run 2 external batteries (I use 2 optimas - see my profile). Maintenance is charging batteries. I haven't changed my seals in about a year, I usually don't change them unless it's pissing oil, and changing the oil every so often is a good idea. Solenoids should never go out. Common cause of sticking solenoids are dead batteries, or a bad ground. With a 2/4 and 24v you only need 1 solenoid per pump.

Cost I'd say is a wash.

no matter what you do dont do somthing just for ease or cost get what you want and somthing you enjoy the little extra money in doing it right will sure as hell be alot better than fixing shit down the road! and i have juice on my s10 no accumulators and i doubt i will ever go to air im running a 2 pump 24v setup and its still really fast i only charge my batteries overnight about once a week and its daily driven no problems!

my situation isnt for ease.....i am not sure a bag will fit and give me the lift i need up front...rear isnt an issue with bag placement......as for cost i wont be getting used or sub par equipment...i plan on investing a lil bit in whatever setup i decide to go with.....so i assume it is a wash either way....i understand the do what you want or you wont like it....its why i sold the taco...wont happen on this one

Originally posted by 72bumpside



so what company to use?

pro hopperblack magicpitbullccereds

which is it? prohopper and cce have the better deals, but what about quality?



hijacker pumps.. there sold from cce but hyjackers are the best pumps. they have bigger ports all the way in the pump head they dont narrow down to 3/8 they stay 1/2 inch all the way thru. look at the heads on them youll see... but like burke said prohopper cylinders. ive never busted one of those and them and the reds masterflow cylinders are the only ones i never had a problem with.

Edited: 9/9/2008 2:49:18 PM by angrytony

research is your best tool. every ones opinion is gonna be different

if you would have asked me a year ago,i would have said bags 100%...... but now that i have juice and it was done right, i can say that 99.999999999999999% of my rides from now on will have juice on them. my car has almost 70k miles(i bought it at 60k) and it was bagged at like 10k. i have a street charger on it, so i never charge the batteries. the only maintenance was i replaced the front cylinders(i upgraded to competition cylinders with the 3 seals) and i had a solenoid go out. with the solenoid i found out the fuse on my street charger went out and the batteries got low. i replaced the fuse and the solenoid and its doin fine. no leaks, no worries.

If I wanted a dependable hydro set up on a budget this is what I would do:


For the price and ease of install I would get 2 HiJacker integrated pumps from CCE (that's the pumps with built in plumbing). They're as bullet proof as they come(I know because I designed them). They have many benefits for your application. 1. Is they come with a much smaller gear than any other pump which means it will lift on 12v without any problems. 2. All you have to do is pipe tape 2 fittings in the block and you can hook up your hoses and that is great for a new guy who don't know how to plump a traditional set up. 3. That pump has a built in pressure relief so if you over lock(hold the switch too long) you're not in much danger.

I would run 2(you could run 1 although I wouldn't for amperage reasons and solenoid life) group 31 1000CCA(Deka 1231) rated or higher. Run them in parallel(positive to positive, negative to negative). ABSOLUTELY NO MARINE OR OPTIMA BATTERIES. Go to your local stereo shop and get a high amp battery isolator solenoid for charging with your alternator.

Use a 6 inch cylinder with a coil under up front. A 6 inch cylinder will lock the suspension out on that truck. For the rear your cylinder size would depend on if you have a link or leafs and what type. I would run CCE power balls and their coil over cups(upper and lower). I would weld the top coil over cup to what ever mount you make to keep down the noise and cylinder wear. I would run no smaller than a 12 in the rear even if you can't use all the stroke so you can get enough spring between the cups to have a decent ride. Make sure you build your bridge or top mount high enough to get plenty of spring in there. Find a way to mount shocks up front and rear and you will have a great ride with the right spring.