??Pics of square body ranger Front end bag setups Please??

I sure am.

My brothers ranger has heim joints on the radius arms, and they are welded to the stock radius arms, they are also extended about an extra 6"... His truck use to be a street hopper, and they held up with no problems, even with bunny hopping about 3ft in the air...   As for the ibeam pivot if you have aftermarket ibeams (which most people have) they are made out of regular steel which can be welded to, so i see no problem with cutting the end off and putting a big heim joint on the end of it. Or you could cut the end of it off and cap it, then tap the end of it and thread a heim joint in, like a 4 link

Edited: 1/16/2009 10:06:48 AM by Lowlowriderbike

 I cant remember whos truck this is on, i think its the blue ranger from Acro... but see the end of the radius arm, it has a heim on the end of it, and it would be best to plate the back side of the radius arm completely in, then come off the bottom with a mount, with gussets, and for the top, i think i talked to someone and they used a piece of like 2x3 box tube, welded to the underside of the frame

Edited: 1/16/2009 10:22:37 AM by iLLblazer

Edited: 1/16/2009 10:22:16 AM by iLLblazerThis truck has been running my prototype radius arm setup for 2 summers now with no issues. I redid them a bit last summer so they are now superpivot ends. I'm planning to do a bit more R&D and fine tuning this spring and then go into production.  Extending them is not really a good idea, since it will push your wheel forward.  http://www.streetsource.com/ViewOwnerProfile.aspx?ProfileID=47760

why would extending the radius arms push the wheel forward?   wait wait, let me clear this up, if you extend the radius arm, make sure you move the pivot point the same distance back... cause that would push the wheel forward...

--------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Lowlowriderbike Edited: 1/16/2009 10:06:48 AM by Lowlowriderbike   I cant remember whos truck this is on, i think its the blue ranger from Acro... but see the end of the radius arm, it has a heim on the end of it, and it would be best to plate the back side of the radius arm completely in, then come off the bottom with a mount, with gussets, and for the top, i think i talked to someone and they used a piece of like 2x3 box tube, welded to the underside of the frame ---------------------------------------------Would you happen to know what size wheels are on this ranger?..Thanks

yup when i took mine out, the bushings were worn out due to the twisting of just being bagged, and i only had 18s with 35 series tire.i put 20s on it and the beam would have had to went up 3 more inches to lay out. for all that work its easier to yota clip it.u could run a parallel 4 link on the beams(2 on each beam) to replace the radius arm to keep some of the horrid swing out of it. plus offset of wheels plays a big role when getting the rim out of the fender.

if its the blue gen I extended cab that was in then in acro or whatever, that steering joint is HIGHLY unsafe, as that rubber will eventually fail and lose steering. also that truck is on 18s, and doesnt lift any higher then mine did.

yeah my bushing is worn out to from the twisting on the beam.I could put new bushing in there but they would do the same thing in weeks time. This is what was being explained beginning of the in the posting but some people just didnt get that.There is just no good way to lay 20,s the suspension just doesnt like to travel that much

yeah that ranger is in pebble pushers, sounds right now... And yeah 20s on beams is pretty much a pain... unless you plan on driving it on and off a trailer and never turning, its probably best that you just clip it... or just leave it on some 19s or even 18s with a little bit more rubber