??Pics of square body ranger Front end bag setups Please??

Edited: 1/21/2009 12:11:29 AM by djdcb3man2001

" border="0" alt="" />" border="0" alt="" /> Okay I am positve you can lay a ranger on 20's with beams.  altough the radius arms definetly need hiems as do the beams they are both seriusly bound up will get pics soon. i actually had to loosen the radius arm bolt to get it to lay.  I had to notch the frame for the beam and for the tierods.  They are huge notches.  I had to bend the drivers side tirrod to keep it from hitting pitma arm. The ibeam crossmember is is notched a whole lot to with the dream beams.  I will go back and box the whole frame i as well as box the notches the i beam crossmember will also have to be plated and boxed back in.  Right now the firewall is stock and the drivers wiring harness will have to be moved as wil the brakebooster have to be smaller. Have no tackled the passenger side yet dont think i will have to notch as much crossmember but am worried bout the beam hitting the oilpan before it lays.  ???SO any suggestions on the brake booster as far as what to replace it with?????? Also do you guys think i can cut the heater blower out and recess it far enuf into the firewall to clear the wheels???  Wil there be enuf room behind the dash???????  On the passenger side I belive I can keep the battery over there by fabbing a box and moving it real close to the radiator support not sure yet though..   It is definetly the most challenging thing Ive bulit but I think ill get it laid and safe by the summer. I wil post a ton more pics soon

Nice work! Looks good with the 20 tucked up in that fender.

Edited: 1/23/2009 5:21:51 PM by bagged85

yota clip and you dont have to move the brake booster  here is 20s on the front of mine, no bags, just beam hitting the frame. notice its 3 inches from laying body.i think ti was actually hitting the fire wall in that pic to. see how far its pulled back to? not worth it IMO to do beams 20s and a bodydrop. plus they wouldnt untuck due to postive camber as it SITS. 5in offset to. 

Here is my first pic outside with the bed just sittin on there it will go down bout another 3/4 ich on the driver side hittin that big wiring harness and the brake booster anyone have any recomindations for what kinda brake booster to rock.  And im wonderin if you can cut the section of firewall out with the blower heater core assembly out andmove it back basically recessing it in the firewall kinda like you would the clutch reservoir on an s10 nut alot bigger. Has anyone ever tried this? Plus i would very much like to see some pics of the firewall tubbed for 20"s ona square bodied.  As many build pics as you guys got.  mailtojdcb3man2001@yahoo.com in case email is easier well now immas tart the bags on the radius arms and changin everything over too heims.  Oh yeah   oh yeah 16.5 inches of lift at the axle and less than a full degree of pinion change sorry i gotta brag its my first homemade fourlink and it actually worked right first time well thanxs for the pics in advance..hint hint

For lift and clearence try mounting a air cylinder on the radius arm. It will give you cantilever lift and it keeps it out of the way. I did it on an 89. I went from frame to damn near stock height on a 4" cylinder. Just frame and 17's though. Don't know if it is manageable as much as for what you are looking into. Here is the link for a picture that i have. It is crude work, but i have since learned and improved my work.  

Edited: 1/24/2009 9:53:38 AM by UnusualFabrication

Bandicoot, you can do the same with an airbag. It would go on the inside of the radius arm under the frame. You wouldn't lose any turning radius either. You will probably want to change the radius rod bushing out to a heim as the weight of the truck is now on that pivot point. It should also take care of the binding issues the original poster ran into when he had to loosen the radius rods to get it to lay out.

yeah im starting on my radius arm bag mounts tonight where should i put them on the radius arm to get the lift needed to untuck 20's and i still need some advice on the firewall and what kind of brake booste to run

To figure out the lift you need you have a couple of options. You can measure the lenght of the arm, see how much lift you need, and see how much stroke the bag gets and draw it out on paper or on the garage floor. You can also simulate it on the garage floor. Or you can use your jack and a tape measure. I have a drafting table and a 3D cad program that I use as well as trial and error. As for tubing the firewall, your just going to have to trim it until the tires clear, then add tubs. On the booster, check out the universals that Waylayed carries. I think they have some pics in their forum on SSM.