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Mini Truckin General \ Dallas Hotrod Parts?Dallas Hotrod Parts?
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replies 181
following 69
fabricationnation
+1y
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toreadorxlt said:
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:13:52 AM by toreadorxlt
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Chopped Mazda said:
That balljoint posted earlier, with the strategically placed "grooves" , is that a one piece or two piece cup?
I think his problem was with the poor machining quality on the cup, rather than it being two pieces.
Taylor
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UnusualFabrication said:
Mike, can you prove that these grooves help the balljoints cups? I would think that by grooving the inside where the balljoint seats on the cup that you are reducing surface area for the press fit. I use S-10 press-in lower balljoints in my Mazda lower tube arms and also in my S-10 lower tube arms and have never had a balljoint come loose or fallout.
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He's joking himself... I'm the lucky guy that owns the box of shit parts..
I have a college degree in product design, I do quality engineering and technical design for a living. I scratch built my own cups on a lathe... I own a lathe. He's a fucking joke if he thinks that hes pulling the wool over my eyes with his excuses for the pictures I posted up. I'm have the parts in the pictures in my possession... They are .025" undersized where in the worse case the balljoint would slip out the bottom. The pattern is so sporadic, that the only excuse is poor machining. I promise you it can't be duplicated. I challenge him to duplicate this shit. As far as TIG welded, thats a joke. Everything I recieved was MIG welded.
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havok said:
I have bought many sets of arms from mike, and most of them were "custom" orders. Mazda arms with toy ball joints, 1-ton chevy arms that are shorter than factory and longer than factory, etc and so far they all have worked and done the job. They look strong and has kept all the vehicles off the ground with no problems. If time is a issue you may have to go somewhere else. Price is always good and the functionality has been fine. I have ordered arms from AIM, and Air ride tech and have issues with both of them. Just today I had to reweld some Air Ride Tech "strong arms" that broke a bag plate weld. His arms are great for 99% of us minitruckers. It would be nice if we could get them quicker like a mass produced arm, but I don't think that will happen, way to many variables.
Does a funky hole from a plasma cut hole affect the way your vehicle ride? NoDoes ridges on your ball joint cup affect the way your vehicle ride, or if it started life as 2 parts? No
Could have parts been made better? YesCould you have had the part sooner? YesCould you have paid more? Yes
Could I be a porn star? YesWould anyone watch? No
Just my couple of cents.....
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I never complained about the 2 part balljoint cup, infact it makes total sense. But what about the shitty machining? What are your comments on the cup being ovalized? Or the useless rod ends i received. This is after saying the parts would take 5-7 days to make on 11/14/09, and I received them on 1/29/10...
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as I said the cups were 2 piece at that time and the two pieces are welded together. then they were turned.
as I also said I dont do that anymore. I make them one piece now.
the rod ends I have explained over and over. I also said I would replace any of that.
the balljoint cups will ovalize when they are welded to the arm tubes. This is another reason for using one piece cups from thicker material.
I used to buy screw in cups from a local racing shop. they were thin and about one third of the time they would ovalize where the tubes weld to them. sometimes the screw in balljoints would not screw in. I bought some from speedway and they are much thicker and never ovalize. this is another of the several reasons I now use one piece cups.
keep trying
toreadorxlt said:
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:13:52 AM by toreadorxlt
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Chopped Mazda said:
That balljoint posted earlier, with the strategically placed "grooves" , is that a one piece or two piece cup?
I think his problem was with the poor machining quality on the cup, rather than it being two pieces.
Taylor
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UnusualFabrication said:
Mike, can you prove that these grooves help the balljoints cups? I would think that by grooving the inside where the balljoint seats on the cup that you are reducing surface area for the press fit. I use S-10 press-in lower balljoints in my Mazda lower tube arms and also in my S-10 lower tube arms and have never had a balljoint come loose or fallout.
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He's joking himself... I'm the lucky guy that owns the box of shit parts..
I have a college degree in product design, I do quality engineering and technical design for a living. I scratch built my own cups on a lathe... I own a lathe. He's a fucking joke if he thinks that hes pulling the wool over my eyes with his excuses for the pictures I posted up. I'm have the parts in the pictures in my possession... They are .025" undersized where in the worse case the balljoint would slip out the bottom. The pattern is so sporadic, that the only excuse is poor machining. I promise you it can't be duplicated. I challenge him to duplicate this shit. As far as TIG welded, thats a joke. Everything I recieved was MIG welded.
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havok said:
I have bought many sets of arms from mike, and most of them were "custom" orders. Mazda arms with toy ball joints, 1-ton chevy arms that are shorter than factory and longer than factory, etc and so far they all have worked and done the job. They look strong and has kept all the vehicles off the ground with no problems. If time is a issue you may have to go somewhere else. Price is always good and the functionality has been fine. I have ordered arms from AIM, and Air ride tech and have issues with both of them. Just today I had to reweld some Air Ride Tech "strong arms" that broke a bag plate weld. His arms are great for 99% of us minitruckers. It would be nice if we could get them quicker like a mass produced arm, but I don't think that will happen, way to many variables.
Does a funky hole from a plasma cut hole affect the way your vehicle ride? NoDoes ridges on your ball joint cup affect the way your vehicle ride, or if it started life as 2 parts? No
Could have parts been made better? YesCould you have had the part sooner? YesCould you have paid more? Yes
Could I be a porn star? YesWould anyone watch? No
Just my couple of cents.....
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I never complained about the 2 part balljoint cup, infact it makes total sense. But what about the shitty machining? What are your comments on the cup being ovalized? Or the useless rod ends i received. This is after saying the parts would take 5-7 days to make on 11/14/09, and I received them on 1/29/10...
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as I said the cups were 2 piece at that time and the two pieces are welded together. then they were turned.
as I also said I dont do that anymore. I make them one piece now.
the rod ends I have explained over and over. I also said I would replace any of that.
the balljoint cups will ovalize when they are welded to the arm tubes. This is another reason for using one piece cups from thicker material.
I used to buy screw in cups from a local racing shop. they were thin and about one third of the time they would ovalize where the tubes weld to them. sometimes the screw in balljoints would not screw in. I bought some from speedway and they are much thicker and never ovalize. this is another of the several reasons I now use one piece cups.
keep trying
fabricationnation
+1y
Edited: 10/24/2010 11:53:26 AM by fabricationnation
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UnusualFabrication said:
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fabricationnation said:
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UnusualFabrication said:
Mike, can you prove that these grooves help the balljoints cups? I would think that by grooving the inside where the balljoint seats on the cup that you are reducing surface area for the press fit. I use S-10 press-in lower balljoints in my Mazda lower tube arms and also in my S-10 lower tube arms and have never had a balljoint come loose or fallout.
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prove it? are you kidding me?
most balljoints come with grooves, and they dont lessen the grip they improve it.
smooth balljoints are designed by the manufacturer to go into a stamped steel control arm. after a while the tightness of the arm is lessened and the aftermarket balljoints have grooves to improve the tightness and fit. This is obvious to anyone who has pressed in alot of aftermarket balljoints.
Ive never had one come out either, that does not prove anything other than we have gotten the tightness correct.
The ones that are grooved now have smaller sharper grooves rather than the larger deeper grooves I used to make.
I have seen arms used for testing that have had the balljoints pressed in an out several times get looser every time and the grooves improve that.
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Wierd, I have no less than 3 sets of aftermarket balljoints out in the shop and none of them have grooves in them. I have two sets of stock S-10 lowers and guess what, no grooves in the factory stampings. Yes prove it! They sell oversized aftermarket balljoints that are identical to the factory balljoints except the casing is oversized .010' or more. Maybe if you brushed that chip off your shoulder you might get a warmer reception from people. Begining you replied with "prove it? Are you kidding me?", like your so much smarter than everybody else. The fact is that you have nothing to back up the claim that these "grooves" help or hinder anything. The reason the balljoints gets loose after pressing them in and out alot is because the metal cup or stock stamping stretches. No matter how many grooves you put in the cup it doesn't mean shit if it is stretching out.
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3 sets? I have probably 30 different balljoints I use just for testing. I have probably 15 sets of different balljoints for customer arms.
3 sets? I shipped that many on friday.
yes they stretch and grooves help hold the balljoint. yes aftermarket balljoints have grooves. its a fact.
the only chip on my shoulder is from people like you trying to find something to come i here and post to get a rise. but your info is wrong.
smooth bore balljoint cups are fine for regular aftermarket arms. arms that have lots of travel and bottom or top out the balljoint need to be tighter and I choose to make mine that way. If you dont like it then its ok.
I know they sell oversize balljoints. I used to use those on lower arms in lowers I made with laser cut 1/2" thick lower balljoint plates. many of these also have grooves. many aftermarket balljoints made as a direct replacement have grooves. go to oreilly or autozone or napa or whatever they have near you and get a look at the balljoints and you will see they have grooves.
come on chris, this is just pointless. I have my reasons which are valid for doing them the way I do plus Ive posted several reasons why I have changed my cups and everything else.
you guys are still grabbing for straws.
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UnusualFabrication said:
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fabricationnation said:
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UnusualFabrication said:
Mike, can you prove that these grooves help the balljoints cups? I would think that by grooving the inside where the balljoint seats on the cup that you are reducing surface area for the press fit. I use S-10 press-in lower balljoints in my Mazda lower tube arms and also in my S-10 lower tube arms and have never had a balljoint come loose or fallout.
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prove it? are you kidding me?
most balljoints come with grooves, and they dont lessen the grip they improve it.
smooth balljoints are designed by the manufacturer to go into a stamped steel control arm. after a while the tightness of the arm is lessened and the aftermarket balljoints have grooves to improve the tightness and fit. This is obvious to anyone who has pressed in alot of aftermarket balljoints.
Ive never had one come out either, that does not prove anything other than we have gotten the tightness correct.
The ones that are grooved now have smaller sharper grooves rather than the larger deeper grooves I used to make.
I have seen arms used for testing that have had the balljoints pressed in an out several times get looser every time and the grooves improve that.
--------------------------------------------
Wierd, I have no less than 3 sets of aftermarket balljoints out in the shop and none of them have grooves in them. I have two sets of stock S-10 lowers and guess what, no grooves in the factory stampings. Yes prove it! They sell oversized aftermarket balljoints that are identical to the factory balljoints except the casing is oversized .010' or more. Maybe if you brushed that chip off your shoulder you might get a warmer reception from people. Begining you replied with "prove it? Are you kidding me?", like your so much smarter than everybody else. The fact is that you have nothing to back up the claim that these "grooves" help or hinder anything. The reason the balljoints gets loose after pressing them in and out alot is because the metal cup or stock stamping stretches. No matter how many grooves you put in the cup it doesn't mean shit if it is stretching out.
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3 sets? I have probably 30 different balljoints I use just for testing. I have probably 15 sets of different balljoints for customer arms.
3 sets? I shipped that many on friday.
yes they stretch and grooves help hold the balljoint. yes aftermarket balljoints have grooves. its a fact.
the only chip on my shoulder is from people like you trying to find something to come i here and post to get a rise. but your info is wrong.
smooth bore balljoint cups are fine for regular aftermarket arms. arms that have lots of travel and bottom or top out the balljoint need to be tighter and I choose to make mine that way. If you dont like it then its ok.
I know they sell oversize balljoints. I used to use those on lower arms in lowers I made with laser cut 1/2" thick lower balljoint plates. many of these also have grooves. many aftermarket balljoints made as a direct replacement have grooves. go to oreilly or autozone or napa or whatever they have near you and get a look at the balljoints and you will see they have grooves.
come on chris, this is just pointless. I have my reasons which are valid for doing them the way I do plus Ive posted several reasons why I have changed my cups and everything else.
you guys are still grabbing for straws.
unusualfabrication
+1y
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:23:27 PM by UnusualFabrication
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fabricationnation said:
I have built several sets also, several hundred sets with absolutely no issues and happy owners.
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Ever think that some poeple just don't bring it to your attention that they are not happy with your product or that it has broken? Maybe prior owners are not as happy as YOU think!
I know this owner never said anything to you about his arms that broke while he was driving down the road! Thank god he or nobody else was hurt. And don't tell me they broke because of all the lift they get. These arms were spray painted black and there were no signs of contact on the underside of the arms or the chassis.
After I fixed them they worked great!
And I know I didn't say anything, until now, when a pair that I bought from you broke while I was driving down the highway! Thank god I was able to get my truck under control and limp down the off ramp into a carpool lot where I safely trailored it back to the shop and made new tube arms for it. It was awesome to know that all the time and money I spent making them look nice, because they didn't look nice when I got them, went down the drain. Also wierd how it broke in pretty much the same spot as the S-10 arms above.
Thats ok because it motivated me to make make own line of Nissan tube arms. Don't worry i'm not using those cross shafts. I would never weld nuts on the end of tubing instead of just drilling and tapping the ends for a much nicer clear product.
I really don't need to come in here and get a rise. My info is correct and I can go take pictures of smooth balljoints if you really want me to.
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fabricationnation said:
I have built several sets also, several hundred sets with absolutely no issues and happy owners.
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Ever think that some poeple just don't bring it to your attention that they are not happy with your product or that it has broken? Maybe prior owners are not as happy as YOU think!
I know this owner never said anything to you about his arms that broke while he was driving down the road! Thank god he or nobody else was hurt. And don't tell me they broke because of all the lift they get. These arms were spray painted black and there were no signs of contact on the underside of the arms or the chassis.
After I fixed them they worked great!
And I know I didn't say anything, until now, when a pair that I bought from you broke while I was driving down the highway! Thank god I was able to get my truck under control and limp down the off ramp into a carpool lot where I safely trailored it back to the shop and made new tube arms for it. It was awesome to know that all the time and money I spent making them look nice, because they didn't look nice when I got them, went down the drain. Also wierd how it broke in pretty much the same spot as the S-10 arms above.
Thats ok because it motivated me to make make own line of Nissan tube arms. Don't worry i'm not using those cross shafts. I would never weld nuts on the end of tubing instead of just drilling and tapping the ends for a much nicer clear product.
I really don't need to come in here and get a rise. My info is correct and I can go take pictures of smooth balljoints if you really want me to.
fabricationnation
+1y
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:30:25 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:28:36 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:27:38 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:25:17 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:21:05 PM by fabricationnation
the S-10 arms in the pic were the old ones made with 3/16" plate and were recalled and every set sent back was replaced with me paying shipping both ways.
Plus the lower arms got so much lift that it caused the upper arms to hit the frame, shown in this pic with the arrows and after contacting the frame the lower is still pulling down and eventually the upper arm broke. NOTICE THE MARKS IN THE SAME SPOT ON EACH ARM. The one that broke was probably the one on the right in the pic since theres a noticeabe notch in the metal where its been hitting.
also notice it did not break at the weld, it broke across the bolt holes. a wider plate notched for the tube and going around the tube would not have broken, especially if it were 1/4" thick, which is 1/16" thicker than this plate.
see the marks? yep, same marks on every arms sent back to me. Yes notching the tube and using 1/4" plate solved this issue. yes this issue that was solved in 2005. Plus look at the date...how long did the arms last before breaking? how many times did it bang the frame? from the one on the right theres a notch in the metal, thats how many times it banged....
The flame arms are no longer made either for the same reason, the balljoint plate needs more metal to be strong enough for a bagged truck.
You havent seen a BYC or DHP arm break since changing to notched tubes. its a simple as that.
so yes you are trying to get a rise by posting pics of things solved back 5 plus years ago and arms that were replaced.
again, keep trying
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:28:36 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:27:38 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:25:17 PM by fabricationnation
Edited: 10/24/2010 12:21:05 PM by fabricationnation
the S-10 arms in the pic were the old ones made with 3/16" plate and were recalled and every set sent back was replaced with me paying shipping both ways.
Plus the lower arms got so much lift that it caused the upper arms to hit the frame, shown in this pic with the arrows and after contacting the frame the lower is still pulling down and eventually the upper arm broke. NOTICE THE MARKS IN THE SAME SPOT ON EACH ARM. The one that broke was probably the one on the right in the pic since theres a noticeabe notch in the metal where its been hitting.
also notice it did not break at the weld, it broke across the bolt holes. a wider plate notched for the tube and going around the tube would not have broken, especially if it were 1/4" thick, which is 1/16" thicker than this plate.
see the marks? yep, same marks on every arms sent back to me. Yes notching the tube and using 1/4" plate solved this issue. yes this issue that was solved in 2005. Plus look at the date...how long did the arms last before breaking? how many times did it bang the frame? from the one on the right theres a notch in the metal, thats how many times it banged....
The flame arms are no longer made either for the same reason, the balljoint plate needs more metal to be strong enough for a bagged truck.
You havent seen a BYC or DHP arm break since changing to notched tubes. its a simple as that.
so yes you are trying to get a rise by posting pics of things solved back 5 plus years ago and arms that were replaced.
again, keep trying
GraphicDisorder
+1y
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fabricationnation said:
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86IsuzuPup said:
Bandwagon huh? I'm on my own wagon bro! Should have thought of that before you screwed so many people.
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Yea your jumping on the bandwagon instead of contacting me. you say I "screwed" people. you obviously did not read any posts. I went bankrupt and my shop was closed and I was locked out. I came back 20 months later JUST LIKE I SAID I WOULD and I have been making parts since.
how is that screwing anyone. My business grew too fast and I could not keep up selling parts too cheap to Jason and retail.
its as simple as that. Ive had the BYC page on my site since January of 2008 and if you havent seen any pf the threads here or any of the other forums where I regularly post then you must not have been reading any forums. if you have an old order then email me and lets get it worked out. You have not seen any of my new product so you really dont know. look at the pics on my website.
another incorrect posting full of incorrect info, rumor and conjecture.
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So it would be fair to say that if a customer back in BYC days ordered from you, and you didn't ship it/make it and you didn't refund them and they never contacted you since you "restarted" under the new name, then there could be more people out there that realistically are owed parts or refunds. I mean there are plenty of people that would probably just rather move on when they seen so many people were not getting parts/refunds/communication in any kind of realistic time line and so on. With the way you talk to these people (some with legit claims as shown at least two times in this thread), I cant imagine many people would suspect good results.
Thats exactly what I take from it, that you really dont know how many poeple you have left on the hook, you said 2 the other day. Today another shows proof of his payment to you. Now unless you can prove you shipped him something I guess that means he isn't on a bandwagon and is just pissed off he paid you for parts he's never got.
I dont think there is anything unfair about someone being pissed about giving $300-400-500 dollars to someone and never getting the product. I don't think some of them use the best tact when talking to you, but you dont either. As the business in this matter you should step above these people and handle the communication professionally. Thats my opinion.
I probably should have never let this thread happen, but lets let it run a bit longer and see if anything posititive can come from it. Im sure by this point you think im attacking you, not at all. I am unbiased, and I will call this deal like I see it, and I see problems on both sides. Hopefully that is clear and you can understand my intent is for both parties to get something out of this. If the childish name calling on both sides cant end, well then the thread can.
I also agree with Big from above, you shouldn't be shipping all these new orders (3 you claimed Friday, there is profit in each) without being 100% complete on BYC past orders. By 100% I mean not just what you know about, I mean stepping out in the open in a thread like this and asking for people to show proof of purchase, I suspect there are at least a few more people that haven't contacted you over it. It would be ignorant to assume everyone that was owed stuff is still trying to contact you. I bet some dont even know your back in business. So lets keep that context.
Mikes actual customers, you have a right to be pissed, but you would probably do yourself a favor to cut the name calling, slamming, and such. Post facts, he cant debate facts. Post reciepts, emails, screen shots of transactions, and such. If you spend your time being organized about how you contact him he wont have much choice but to take you serious and fix you up. Of course if he didn't you would have that then documented as well.
fabricationnation said:
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86IsuzuPup said:
Bandwagon huh? I'm on my own wagon bro! Should have thought of that before you screwed so many people.
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Yea your jumping on the bandwagon instead of contacting me. you say I "screwed" people. you obviously did not read any posts. I went bankrupt and my shop was closed and I was locked out. I came back 20 months later JUST LIKE I SAID I WOULD and I have been making parts since.
how is that screwing anyone. My business grew too fast and I could not keep up selling parts too cheap to Jason and retail.
its as simple as that. Ive had the BYC page on my site since January of 2008 and if you havent seen any pf the threads here or any of the other forums where I regularly post then you must not have been reading any forums. if you have an old order then email me and lets get it worked out. You have not seen any of my new product so you really dont know. look at the pics on my website.
another incorrect posting full of incorrect info, rumor and conjecture.
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So it would be fair to say that if a customer back in BYC days ordered from you, and you didn't ship it/make it and you didn't refund them and they never contacted you since you "restarted" under the new name, then there could be more people out there that realistically are owed parts or refunds. I mean there are plenty of people that would probably just rather move on when they seen so many people were not getting parts/refunds/communication in any kind of realistic time line and so on. With the way you talk to these people (some with legit claims as shown at least two times in this thread), I cant imagine many people would suspect good results.
Thats exactly what I take from it, that you really dont know how many poeple you have left on the hook, you said 2 the other day. Today another shows proof of his payment to you. Now unless you can prove you shipped him something I guess that means he isn't on a bandwagon and is just pissed off he paid you for parts he's never got.
I dont think there is anything unfair about someone being pissed about giving $300-400-500 dollars to someone and never getting the product. I don't think some of them use the best tact when talking to you, but you dont either. As the business in this matter you should step above these people and handle the communication professionally. Thats my opinion.
I probably should have never let this thread happen, but lets let it run a bit longer and see if anything posititive can come from it. Im sure by this point you think im attacking you, not at all. I am unbiased, and I will call this deal like I see it, and I see problems on both sides. Hopefully that is clear and you can understand my intent is for both parties to get something out of this. If the childish name calling on both sides cant end, well then the thread can.
I also agree with Big from above, you shouldn't be shipping all these new orders (3 you claimed Friday, there is profit in each) without being 100% complete on BYC past orders. By 100% I mean not just what you know about, I mean stepping out in the open in a thread like this and asking for people to show proof of purchase, I suspect there are at least a few more people that haven't contacted you over it. It would be ignorant to assume everyone that was owed stuff is still trying to contact you. I bet some dont even know your back in business. So lets keep that context.
Mikes actual customers, you have a right to be pissed, but you would probably do yourself a favor to cut the name calling, slamming, and such. Post facts, he cant debate facts. Post reciepts, emails, screen shots of transactions, and such. If you spend your time being organized about how you contact him he wont have much choice but to take you serious and fix you up. Of course if he didn't you would have that then documented as well.
fabricationnation
+1y
and I can go take pics of grooved balljoints as well. I can see smooth balljoints if I want out in my shop. I have both. It really depends on what the balljoint manufacturer intended it for. It it was intended to replace a stock balljoint in a stamped steel arms then its most likely grooved. if the stock arm has a hard non stamped steel piece where the balljoint goes then it may be smooth, again depending on manufacturer.
I pressed in some K6117 lower balljoints yesterday that were smooth, (73-87 GM fullsize lowers)
and some K6293 lowers that were grooved (88-98 GM fullsize lowers)
I pressed in some K6117 lower balljoints yesterday that were smooth, (73-87 GM fullsize lowers)
and some K6293 lowers that were grooved (88-98 GM fullsize lowers)
draggincraze
+1y
i have been watching this thread since it was posted and wasnt going to comment on anything but mike said most of his byc orders were almost caught up....i ordered s10 arms 7/3/05 and still havent receved them. ive been looking for the money order reciept i kept but cant find it only can find my huntington bank ticket saying i had a money order bought for $478 but not to who the money order was made out too. i emailed mike several times back in 08 and 09 and he told me to send him all my info in which i did and he would make it right.after not hearing anything for weeks i would send him the same stuff and get the same results.....nothing! i sold the s10 in the fall of 08 but thought if i got the arms i could use them maybe someday.i finally cut my loss in which i erased my emails from him before this popped up.but he should still have my info and can get in touch with me to make things right i would be happy to email him and resubmit it again. im not trying to bash him but i think he knows who he has and hasn't made things right with!
fabricationnation
+1y
Brandt, he did not show his name or proof of an order date or anything nor did he say whether he tried to contact me or not.
as stated I have had post on forums, many forums and on my website for people to contact me.
I remember most of the names when I see them of people who I owed parts to. The number I thought was about 16 or 17 was actually about 19 or 20.
But There may be one or two that have not contacted me at all. but we are talking a very small number that have not been taken care of yet, on the large side theres 4 or 5 and on the small side 2 or 3. It does not matter because Im working with everyone to take care of them.
plus the people that are posting in here should be customers only as we agreed to earlier.
as stated before I have to sell new parts to be able to fill old orders.
yes I shipped 3 sets friday, one was an old order. not even an order where I did not ship them in the day but where I shipped them uppers and lowers and the lowers were missing one of the 2 crossbars. I offered a full new set instead and I sent the uppers, which they already have a set of the old version right now.
how could someone in the scene not know Im back in business?
Ive posted in the 30 or so forums Im a member of plus I keep it up on my website...
I dont know of any other way to get to anyone that does not know Im in business.
why would you think people would not expect good results? if they look at the parts on my website they can see the difference plus all the postings of old customers who did get their parts. plus if they contact me anything positive is good results. there has been no bad results from anyone that contacted me. so there is no down side.
many times people get more than they asked for. people that were owed just lowers or uppers are getting both, or im giving away free stuff like parts.
I also had a guy contact me with a set of BYC S-10 arms. The version with a 1/2" plate but butt welded. he had not installed them and wanted me to rework them to make them stronger. I decided to replace them with an all new set with bushings, balljoints and new crossbars, which the original version did not have.
m glad to do this and this is just a couple of the times where I did above and beyond what was owed.
No these people dont come in here and post, they just go on with their project.
as stated I have had post on forums, many forums and on my website for people to contact me.
I remember most of the names when I see them of people who I owed parts to. The number I thought was about 16 or 17 was actually about 19 or 20.
But There may be one or two that have not contacted me at all. but we are talking a very small number that have not been taken care of yet, on the large side theres 4 or 5 and on the small side 2 or 3. It does not matter because Im working with everyone to take care of them.
plus the people that are posting in here should be customers only as we agreed to earlier.
as stated before I have to sell new parts to be able to fill old orders.
yes I shipped 3 sets friday, one was an old order. not even an order where I did not ship them in the day but where I shipped them uppers and lowers and the lowers were missing one of the 2 crossbars. I offered a full new set instead and I sent the uppers, which they already have a set of the old version right now.
how could someone in the scene not know Im back in business?
Ive posted in the 30 or so forums Im a member of plus I keep it up on my website...
I dont know of any other way to get to anyone that does not know Im in business.
why would you think people would not expect good results? if they look at the parts on my website they can see the difference plus all the postings of old customers who did get their parts. plus if they contact me anything positive is good results. there has been no bad results from anyone that contacted me. so there is no down side.
many times people get more than they asked for. people that were owed just lowers or uppers are getting both, or im giving away free stuff like parts.
I also had a guy contact me with a set of BYC S-10 arms. The version with a 1/2" plate but butt welded. he had not installed them and wanted me to rework them to make them stronger. I decided to replace them with an all new set with bushings, balljoints and new crossbars, which the original version did not have.
m glad to do this and this is just a couple of the times where I did above and beyond what was owed.
No these people dont come in here and post, they just go on with their project.