Dallas Hotrod Parts?

Thats a good idea Chris, since nothing in this thread has to do with you anyway. I do appreciate your insight as you seem to know your way around building parts. You just happen to be wrong about what Im doing and what I have done.


I have resolved my problems and done everything I can to make my parts better. and they are better. The parts I make right now are very good quality and work great.

yes you were a customer and posted pics of problems. I also posted pics of the solution and why the part broke but still no acknowledgement of that. nothing said of the marks on the arms or the frame of the truck.

as I stated, I can make smooth cups and choose to leave them rough. The grooves I leave now are very small and fell like sandpaper, and yes it does help. I have a guage on my balljoint press and it takes more hydraulic pressure to press in a grooved balljoint or into a grooved cup than smooth. its not my first day installing balljoints.

you can say whatever you want about grooves but they work great.

Taylor you have no business posting here either. You are a known BYC hater from your posts in the other BYC thread.

You have noticed the grooves aftermarket balljoints. also if you look on parts store websites you will see they have different part numbers for regular and oversize balljoints. but they both have grooves.

The aftermarket version of the K6293 sold at Oreilly auto parts has grooves and there is not an option for an oversized balljoint.

so the grooves help, yes the vertical grooves. Horizontal grooves also help.

and really right now we are not talking grooves anyway, we are talking small basically scratches. The grooves are hard to keep consistent across the surface. basically I get the inside to very close to the correct width and then use a pointed tip to put in the scratches. You call it what you want but I have had 0 balljoints come loose since starting this process and they take more pressure to install. this tells me they do hold better. maybe they dont need to hold better but I choose to make this.

just like I could use smaller diameter or thickness of tube but I choose to use what I use.

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fabricationnation said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:30:25 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:28:36 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:27:38 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:25:17 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:21:05 PM by fabricationnation

the S-10 arms in the pic were the old ones made with 3/16" plate and were recalled and every set sent back was replaced with me paying shipping both ways.

Plus the lower arms got so much lift that it caused the upper arms to hit the frame, shown in this pic with the arrows and after contacting the frame the lower is still pulling down and eventually the upper arm broke. NOTICE THE MARKS IN THE SAME SPOT ON EACH ARM. The one that broke was probably the one on the right in the pic since theres a noticeabe notch in the metal where its been hitting.

also notice it did not break at the weld, it broke across the bolt holes. a wider plate notched for the tube and going around the tube would not have broken, especially if it were 1/4" thick, which is 1/16" thicker than this plate.



see the marks? yep, same marks on every arms sent back to me. Yes notching the tube and using 1/4" plate solved this issue. yes this issue that was solved in 2005. Plus look at the date...how long did the arms last before breaking? how many times did it bang the frame? from the one on the right theres a notch in the metal, thats how many times it banged....

The flame arms are no longer made either for the same reason, the balljoint plate needs more metal to be strong enough for a bagged truck.

You havent seen a BYC or DHP arm break since changing to notched tubes. its a simple as that.

so yes you are trying to get a rise by posting pics of things solved back 5 plus years ago and arms that were replaced.

again, keep trying

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Actually the one one the left broke and my point was about people not contacting you about bad or broken products, not why they broke. Maybe some people just pitch them and buy somewhere else, or fix them themselves, or pay someone else to fix them, who knows. You are constantly saying how you have so many happy customers and so many arms in circulation. Well, maybe there are more bad ones than you know of. Maybe you don't have so many happy customers or as many arms in circulation as you think. My case in point, the pictures of the two sets of arms that broke that i'm sure since we didn't contact you, you think we are happy customers.

Brandt I put meta tags in my website for BYC and all other incarnations of it so it can be found in a search. I have posted all over forums and anyone that asked if I was BYC I showed that I am. I could not afford advertising so posting in forums was the next best thing.

I also am not as large as Chevy so letters are not needed. If I had all the old BYC customers addresses, even email addresses of phone numbers I would have. as you may know I was locked out and had no access to anything BYC except old emails which have been gone for years.

Ive put aside every dime since then to get back. I dont drive a nice car and I dont live in a big house. I use every dime to get DHP built up and take care of BYC customers. I have taken care of BYC customers as fast as I could have. maybe alot of people dont realize just how much it costs to make control arms.

This is a scene and anyone that is in the scene could easily find me if they did a simple search.

I feel like Ive done my part to get the word out.

I could not afford to make all those parts when I just opened the doors. I had trouble getting equipment to start with.

Plus many of those parts were different so I would have had to make many jigs and that just was not possible when I first reopened.

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smcprez said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:03:39 PM by smcprez

Here are some pics of the Toyota upper control arms that Mike made & sent to me last week. Im waiting on my lowers now & when they get here they will be going on my boys Ranger project.



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OOOO MY

I thought i had seen it all. Welded together x-shafts. Fantastic.

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UnusualFabrication said:

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fabricationnation said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:30:25 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:28:36 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:27:38 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:25:17 PM by fabricationnation

Edited: 10/24/2010 12:21:05 PM by fabricationnation

the S-10 arms in the pic were the old ones made with 3/16" plate and were recalled and every set sent back was replaced with me paying shipping both ways.

Plus the lower arms got so much lift that it caused the upper arms to hit the frame, shown in this pic with the arrows and after contacting the frame the lower is still pulling down and eventually the upper arm broke. NOTICE THE MARKS IN THE SAME SPOT ON EACH ARM. The one that broke was probably the one on the right in the pic since theres a noticeabe notch in the metal where its been hitting.

also notice it did not break at the weld, it broke across the bolt holes. a wider plate notched for the tube and going around the tube would not have broken, especially if it were 1/4" thick, which is 1/16" thicker than this plate.



see the marks? yep, same marks on every arms sent back to me. Yes notching the tube and using 1/4" plate solved this issue. yes this issue that was solved in 2005. Plus look at the date...how long did the arms last before breaking? how many times did it bang the frame? from the one on the right theres a notch in the metal, thats how many times it banged....

The flame arms are no longer made either for the same reason, the balljoint plate needs more metal to be strong enough for a bagged truck.

You havent seen a BYC or DHP arm break since changing to notched tubes. its a simple as that.

so yes you are trying to get a rise by posting pics of things solved back 5 plus years ago and arms that were replaced.

again, keep trying

--------------------------------------------

Actually the one one the left broke and my point was about people not contacting you about bad or broken products, not why they broke. Maybe some people just pitch them and buy somewhere else, or fix them themselves, or pay someone else to fix them, who knows. You are constantly saying how you have so many happy customers and so many arms in circulation. Well, maybe there are more bad ones than you know of. Maybe you don't have so many happy customers or as many arms in circulation as you think. My case in point, the pictures of the two sets of arms that broke that i'm sure since we didn't contact you, you think we are happy customers.

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If you had contacted me then I would have explained why the arms broke and replaced them with the new version that had a larger plate than those and larger plates than the ones you made. maybe you would have been happy, maybe not.

I cant speculate on what old customers did or whether they or new customers are happy or not. I can read emails from new customers sho say nice things and tell me they are happy. I can assume that when customers buy more parts that they are happy. I can only do my best to take care of old customers and Im telling you all that Ive done everything I can. then you say you think I could have done better or get this taken care of faster. well your wrong. Im the one living this life and I am the only one that knows what I can do. I knew from day one how much money I could spend to get equipment and how long it would take to save enough to get to the day when I made my first new jig, then my second etc etc etc.

I had to make new parts, sell those then take the profit and use that for more material... then keep doing that cycle until I could afford to make a new jig, then start the cycle again. Thats how its been. all this while making all new designs and all new products that help the funding.

If I would have taken the extra money from each paycheck and saved that till I had enough money to buy all the equipment needed to make all the different jigs, and all the material needed to make all the jigs and parts it would have taken more than 10 years to save up that much. selling new parts has sped that up considerably

I am doing 100% of what I can do.

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fabricationnation said:

Chris you have completely ignored everything I Have posted to state my case. I even showed in a picture you took where the arms had been hitting the frame. If you look back in the BYC thread you will see the same marks on the arms pics posted then. I noted it then and then those guys all of a sudden shut the heck up...

address that instead of ignoring it. Yes stronger arms will prevent that from happening. so a larger and thicker balljoint plate notched into the arm tube prevents them from breaking even if they hit the frame. I did exactly that and problem solved, so why is it being brought up now? just so you can try to get a rise or try to prove your right about BYC. But you get shot down.

You post a pic showing something your trying to prove, I shoot it down with your own evidence and you ignore what I posted.

If you want to help lets discuss this in emails and we can go back and forth about machining parts.

since you are not a DHP customer and BYC does not owe you parts you should not be posting here anyway.

Plus everything you have posted is nothing but grabbing at straws and I have refuted everything with an intelligent plausible explanation. I dont have any evidence that grooves helps hold in the balljoint? again, are you kidding?

I see an aftermarket balljoints with grooves in it made to replace a factory balljoint with none. Hmm, why did they put the grooves in it then? Its certainly something that takes an extra step and more money to make. so why would they do that extra step and spend more money when the factory balljoint did not have them?? my assumption is to better hold the balljoint.

plus you dont have any evidence that the grooves dont help. I dont know how much more obvious it can get that that.

You have manufacturers of parts all over the world doing it yet you say theres no evidence that it helps. Hmmm, maybe you know more than the multi million dollar companies manufacturing millions of aftermarket parts.





--------------------------------------------The first bold statement tells me that you have no clue why but since you seen it on something else your going to do it regaurdless of wether its fact or fiction. The second bold statement is exactly why I don't add them, I don't have proof that the grooves help so i'm not just going to add them "just because" and waste valuable time. I've only ever used smooth cups, haven't had a balljoint drop out yet. I'm not going to add something that requires more machine time which transfers more cost to the end user, or slows down production, if it can't be proven to be "value added".

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Chopped Mazda said:

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smcprez said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:03:39 PM by smcprez

Here are some pics of the Toyota upper control arms that Mike made & sent to me last week. Im waiting on my lowers now & when they get here they will be going on my boys Ranger project.



--------------------------------------------



OOOO MY

I thought i had seen it all. Welded together x-shafts. Fantastic.



--------------------------------------------



yep and they work great. They are beveled and welded with alot of heat and lots of wire. They are strong as hell. so dont even start.

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UnusualFabrication said:

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fabricationnation said:

Chris you have completely ignored everything I Have posted to state my case. I even showed in a picture you took where the arms had been hitting the frame. If you look back in the BYC thread you will see the same marks on the arms pics posted then. I noted it then and then those guys all of a sudden shut the heck up...

address that instead of ignoring it. Yes stronger arms will prevent that from happening. so a larger and thicker balljoint plate notched into the arm tube prevents them from breaking even if they hit the frame. I did exactly that and problem solved, so why is it being brought up now? just so you can try to get a rise or try to prove your right about BYC. But you get shot down.

You post a pic showing something your trying to prove, I shoot it down with your own evidence and you ignore what I posted.

If you want to help lets discuss this in emails and we can go back and forth about machining parts.

since you are not a DHP customer and BYC does not owe you parts you should not be posting here anyway.

Plus everything you have posted is nothing but grabbing at straws and I have refuted everything with an intelligent plausible explanation. I dont have any evidence that grooves helps hold in the balljoint? again, are you kidding?

I see an aftermarket balljoints with grooves in it made to replace a factory balljoint with none. Hmm, why did they put the grooves in it then? Its certainly something that takes an extra step and more money to make. so why would they do that extra step and spend more money when the factory balljoint did not have them?? my assumption is to better hold the balljoint.

plus you dont have any evidence that the grooves dont help. I dont know how much more obvious it can get that that.

You have manufacturers of parts all over the world doing it yet you say theres no evidence that it helps. Hmmm, maybe you know more than the multi million dollar companies manufacturing millions of aftermarket parts.





--------------------------------------------The first bold statement tells me that you have no clue why but since you seen it on something else your going to do it regaurdless of wether its fact or fiction. The second bold statement is exactly why I don't add them, I don't have proof that the grooves help so i'm not just going to add them "just because" and waste valuable time. I've only ever used smooth cups, haven't had a balljoint drop out yet. I'm not going to add something that requires more machine time which transfers more cost to the end user, or slows down production, if it can't be proven to be "value added".

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I have plenty of clues why. I choose to use the rougher surface and I wont need to call them grooves anymore since they are no longer grooves. common sense tells me that a rough surface is better than a smooth one when trying to keep something from moving.

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:37:24 PM by Chopped Mazda

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fabricationnation said:





yep and they work great. They are beveled and welded with alot of heat and lots of wire. They are strong as hell. so dont even start.

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LOL

Whatever you have to say to convince yourself.

How do you hold the threaded parts in place? are you atleast machining those on the end of the shafts, or are you sliding bolts in them and welding them?

Good luck mike, hope everything goes well.





Taylor

Again I am just addressing the questions you asked of me, not trying to add more to the thread.