Dallas Hotrod Parts?

the straws are getting harder to grab......

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fabricationnation said:

the straws are getting harder to grab......

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machine some gooves into them, they will grab good then.

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UnusualFabrication said:

Again I am just addressing the questions you asked of me, not trying to add more to the thread.

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great, and I addressed what you said. There is now and was then a process for dealing with parts that failed. At the time an email or phone call would have been the proper thing to do. I understand that you chose not to do either, probably due to the perception of BYC at the time or other reasons. I feel it was so that you could repair them yourself and post pics to try and make me look bad. Hey I really dont blame you for that. I may have done the same thing if someone sold me a part that failed later. If I could have repaired it and made it better and made you look bad at the same time I may have taken the opportunity to do so. so again I dont blame you.

But I have shown on multiple occasions the reason that arm failed and Ive also offered the solutions which I implemented IMMEDIATELY in 2005. I regret not doing more research into making stronger arms. But at the time there werent many people making arms. So I did not have many people to discuss the design with.

I now have many years of experience and have had no issues since then with S-10 arms. I have little issues every now and then with other styles of arms and all are addressed quickly. Usually these days I do lots of test installs and try to break arms or abuse them to make them fail.

Im not a multimillion dollar corporation so testing is limited to what I can do with a vehicle.

The parts I make now are very good and work well.

This thread needs to be closed because I have done everything I can do to answer any questions and answered them many times in many ways. I have addressed issues until they have been beaten into the ground.

I feel that my actions and reasons have been 100% justified and feel there is no good that can come from discussing any of it further.

I welcome any emails from any of you guys and Id like to keep this going that way to discuss anything you guys think may help me.

If you dont want to help then theres no reason to continue here.

If you do want to help then please email me.

This will probably be my last post here and I hope Brandt closes it down.

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Chopped Mazda said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:37:24 PM by Chopped Mazda

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fabricationnation said:





yep and they work great. They are beveled and welded with alot of heat and lots of wire. They are strong as hell. so dont even start.

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LOL

Whatever you have to say to convince yourself.

How do you hold the threaded parts in place? are you atleast machining those on the end of the shafts, or are you sliding bolts in them and welding them?

Good luck mike, hope everything goes well.





Taylor



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I press a grade 8 bolt into a piece of DOM tube and its beveled and tig welded in. then the tube is turned down to a very small size and welded to the uprights. The center piece is notched and beveled. This works great although it does not look as nice as one piece CNC made crossbars.

welded parts are an accepted practice all across industry. many things are welded then machined including all kinds of industrial equipment.

Taylor I invite you to email me about this.

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fabricationnation said:

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UnusualFabrication said:

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fabricationnation said:

Chris you have completely ignored everything I Have posted to state my case. I even showed in a picture you took where the arms had been hitting the frame. If you look back in the BYC thread you will see the same marks on the arms pics posted then. I noted it then and then those guys all of a sudden shut the heck up...

address that instead of ignoring it. Yes stronger arms will prevent that from happening. so a larger and thicker balljoint plate notched into the arm tube prevents them from breaking even if they hit the frame. I did exactly that and problem solved, so why is it being brought up now? just so you can try to get a rise or try to prove your right about BYC. But you get shot down.

You post a pic showing something your trying to prove, I shoot it down with your own evidence and you ignore what I posted.

If you want to help lets discuss this in emails and we can go back and forth about machining parts.

since you are not a DHP customer and BYC does not owe you parts you should not be posting here anyway.

Plus everything you have posted is nothing but grabbing at straws and I have refuted everything with an intelligent plausible explanation. I dont have any evidence that grooves helps hold in the balljoint? again, are you kidding?

I see an aftermarket balljoints with grooves in it made to replace a factory balljoint with none. Hmm, why did they put the grooves in it then? Its certainly something that takes an extra step and more money to make. so why would they do that extra step and spend more money when the factory balljoint did not have them?? my assumption is to better hold the balljoint.

plus you dont have any evidence that the grooves dont help. I dont know how much more obvious it can get that that.

You have manufacturers of parts all over the world doing it yet you say theres no evidence that it helps. Hmmm, maybe you know more than the multi million dollar companies manufacturing millions of aftermarket parts.





--------------------------------------------The first bold statement tells me that you have no clue why but since you seen it on something else your going to do it regaurdless of wether its fact or fiction. The second bold statement is exactly why I don't add them, I don't have proof that the grooves help so i'm not just going to add them "just because" and waste valuable time. I've only ever used smooth cups, haven't had a balljoint drop out yet. I'm not going to add something that requires more machine time which transfers more cost to the end user, or slows down production, if it can't be proven to be "value added".

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I have plenty of clues why. I choose to use the rougher surface and I wont need to call them grooves anymore since they are no longer grooves. common sense tells me that a rough surface is better than a smooth one when trying to keep something from moving.



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Not true, ever use gauge blocks? Smooth as glass, rub them together and they stick together like glue! Rough up one side of one block and rub them together and guess what? They wont stick together at all! The more surface area you have, the more contact the parts make with each other, thus creating a stronger fit. I made tons of dies working at a die shop, dowels get reamed .0005" under, pound in a .500" dowel in a .4995" hole and see how easy that dowel comes out of that hole. Not easy at all. Heres a better example, put 250# weight on a smooth flat floor and try and push it across. Now sprinkle just a touch of sand over the same smooth floor and add the 250# weight. Which one moves easier? The 250# weight with a touch of sand under it because it has less surface contacting between the two surface. The 250# weight with more surface area touching the floor is much harder to move and thats what I want with my balljoint cups, more surface area of the balljoint contacting the balljoint cup.

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fabricationnation said:

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Chopped Mazda said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:37:24 PM by Chopped Mazda

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fabricationnation said:





yep and they work great. They are beveled and welded with alot of heat and lots of wire. They are strong as hell. so dont even start.

--------------------------------------------

LOL

Whatever you have to say to convince yourself.

How do you hold the threaded parts in place? are you atleast machining those on the end of the shafts, or are you sliding bolts in them and welding them?

Good luck mike, hope everything goes well.





Taylor



--------------------------------------------

I press a grade 8 bolt into a piece of DOM tube and its beveled and tig welded in. then the tube is turned down to a very small size and welded to the uprights. The center piece is notched and beveled. This works great although it does not look as nice as one piece CNC made crossbars.

welded parts are an accepted practice all across industry. many things are welded then machined including all kinds of industrial equipment.

Taylor I invite you to email me about this.



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So, i assume you are getting these pieces heat treated after words ? because you and I both know that welding a grade 8 bolt in any way makes it EXTREMELY unreliable, and is known to be an unacceptable practice in any industry. It greatly reduces its stregnth, and makes it much more likely to snap. Being that they are holding the front suspension together, I personally wouldnt beable to sleep at night knowing that.

Taylor

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fabricationnation said:

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UnusualFabrication said:

Again I am just addressing the questions you asked of me, not trying to add more to the thread.

--------------------------------------------

great, and I addressed what you said. There is now and was then a process for dealing with parts that failed. At the time an email or phone call would have been the proper thing to do. I understand that you chose not to do either, probably due to the perception of BYC at the time or other reasons. I feel it was so that you could repair them yourself and post pics to try and make me look bad. Hey I really dont blame you for that. I may have done the same thing if someone sold me a part that failed later. If I could have repaired it and made it better and made you look bad at the same time I may have taken the opportunity to do so. so again I dont blame you.

But I have shown on multiple occasions the reason that arm failed and Ive also offered the solutions which I implemented IMMEDIATELY in 2005. I regret not doing more research into making stronger arms. But at the time there werent many people making arms. So I did not have many people to discuss the design with.

I now have many years of experience and have had no issues since then with S-10 arms. I have little issues every now and then with other styles of arms and all are addressed quickly. Usually these days I do lots of test installs and try to break arms or abuse them to make them fail.

Im not a multimillion dollar corporation so testing is limited to what I can do with a vehicle.

The parts I make now are very good and work well.

This thread needs to be closed because I have done everything I can do to answer any questions and answered them many times in many ways. I have addressed issues until they have been beaten into the ground.

I feel that my actions and reasons have been 100% justified and feel there is no good that can come from discussing any of it further.

I welcome any emails from any of you guys and Id like to keep this going that way to discuss anything you guys think may help me.

If you dont want to help then theres no reason to continue here.

If you do want to help then please email me.

This will probably be my last post here and I hope Brandt closes it down.





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Another prime example, boo hoo, whoa is me, everyone is out to get me and make me look bad. NOT the case! Why would I send busted arms from Michigan to Texas not knowing wether I would get them back or not or how long it would take? Or I could just cut out the bad balljoint plates, notch the tubes, and make a quality repair in just a few hours and get them back on the truck. The case with the Nissan arms, poorly engineered parts that broke. Solution, make new arms myself! Why hassle with shipping, repairing, waiting for who knows how long, and shipping back? I still have the Nissan arms are you going to replace them for me?

Edited: 10/24/2010 4:08:48 PM by Low_SST

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So, i assume you are getting these pieces heat treated after words ? because you and I both know that welding a grade 8 bolt in any way makes it EXTREMELY unreliable, and is known to be an unacceptable practice in any industry. It greatly reduces its stregnth, and makes it much more likely to snap. Being that they are holding the front suspension together, I personally wouldnt beable to sleep at night knowing that.

Taylor





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not when you weld them with wire made from unicorn horns haha.

I love that we get spoken to like were idiots. Metallurgy, whats that? Press fit tolerances, for amateurs. Its ok, im gonna get one of the cups from Steve and run my cmm over it then cut it in half to get a better shot of these grooves (shitty machine work).

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Chopped Mazda said:

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fabricationnation said:

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Chopped Mazda said:

Edited: 10/24/2010 2:37:24 PM by Chopped Mazda

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fabricationnation said:





yep and they work great. They are beveled and welded with alot of heat and lots of wire. They are strong as hell. so dont even start.

--------------------------------------------

LOL

Whatever you have to say to convince yourself.

How do you hold the threaded parts in place? are you atleast machining those on the end of the shafts, or are you sliding bolts in them and welding them?

Good luck mike, hope everything goes well.





Taylor



--------------------------------------------

I press a grade 8 bolt into a piece of DOM tube and its beveled and tig welded in. then the tube is turned down to a very small size and welded to the uprights. The center piece is notched and beveled. This works great although it does not look as nice as one piece CNC made crossbars.

welded parts are an accepted practice all across industry. many things are welded then machined including all kinds of industrial equipment.

Taylor I invite you to email me about this.



--------------------------------------------

So, i assume you are getting these pieces heat treated after words ? because you and I both know that welding a grade 8 bolt in any way makes it EXTREMELY unreliable, and is known to be an unacceptable practice in any industry. It greatly reduces its stregnth, and makes it much more likely to snap. Being that they are holding the front suspension together, I personally wouldnt beable to sleep at night knowing that.

Taylor





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No its not holding the front suspension together. Its simply holding the washer on the bushing. It does keep the bushing from sliding back and forth. But there is very little pressure side to side on that bushing. I have these heat treated as a whole unit after welding. But the bolts are sent to me pre treated so I can weld them. Same place that treats our armor materials for testing.

you wouldnt be able to sleep? come on man thats just drama....

the bolt has no stress from side to side. its holding a bushing washer in place. its not like a bolt thats an actual part of a suspension. The bolt is made with no head on it and is only grade 8 after its treated at the end.

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UnusualFabrication said:

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fabricationnation said:

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UnusualFabrication said:

Again I am just addressing the questions you asked of me, not trying to add more to the thread.

--------------------------------------------

great, and I addressed what you said. There is now and was then a process for dealing with parts that failed. At the time an email or phone call would have been the proper thing to do. I understand that you chose not to do either, probably due to the perception of BYC at the time or other reasons. I feel it was so that you could repair them yourself and post pics to try and make me look bad. Hey I really dont blame you for that. I may have done the same thing if someone sold me a part that failed later. If I could have repaired it and made it better and made you look bad at the same time I may have taken the opportunity to do so. so again I dont blame you.

But I have shown on multiple occasions the reason that arm failed and Ive also offered the solutions which I implemented IMMEDIATELY in 2005. I regret not doing more research into making stronger arms. But at the time there werent many people making arms. So I did not have many people to discuss the design with.

I now have many years of experience and have had no issues since then with S-10 arms. I have little issues every now and then with other styles of arms and all are addressed quickly. Usually these days I do lots of test installs and try to break arms or abuse them to make them fail.

Im not a multimillion dollar corporation so testing is limited to what I can do with a vehicle.

The parts I make now are very good and work well.

This thread needs to be closed because I have done everything I can do to answer any questions and answered them many times in many ways. I have addressed issues until they have been beaten into the ground.

I feel that my actions and reasons have been 100% justified and feel there is no good that can come from discussing any of it further.

I welcome any emails from any of you guys and Id like to keep this going that way to discuss anything you guys think may help me.

If you dont want to help then theres no reason to continue here.

If you do want to help then please email me.

This will probably be my last post here and I hope Brandt closes it down.





--------------------------------------------

Another prime example, boo hoo, whoa is me, everyone is out to get me and make me look bad. NOT the case! Why would I send busted arms from Michigan to Texas not knowing wether I would get them back or not or how long it would take? Or I could just cut out the bad balljoint plates, notch the tubes, and make a quality repair in just a few hours and get them back on the truck. The case with the Nissan arms, poorly engineered parts that broke. Solution, make new arms myself! Why hassle with shipping, repairing, waiting for who knows how long, and shipping back? I still have the Nissan arms are you going to replace them for me?

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its "woe is me" no a in there.

yes many people on here are out to get me or make me look bad. too bad for them that I have my ducks in a row. You keep deflecting the point on the arms. I did everything I could have done at the time to take care of the issues. I immediately changed the way they were made, just like any manufacturer that builds parts will do when something is wrong. I also payed shipping both ways. some manufacturers wont do that.

Yes the flamed arms should not have a plate with that amount of metal in that area.

I understand why you did not want to send them to me but I still say you wanted to post your problem and your fix to get in a dig at me. It looks that way to me and anyone else that looks at the thing in whole.

If you want the Nissan arms replaced just send them to me and I will replace them. You know that and have known that for years.

You can say all you want but I did exacly what any good business should do in that case and continue to do.

keep trying, your running out of straws...