Watts Links

I make watts links that are affordable. I even make a heavy duty one for duallys.

I have a 1998 cc dually , intrested in a watts link setup.
can you tell me more about it?

On any rear axle with a bolt on rear gear cover its best to be able to remove that cover without removing the watts link.

Mine clears the cover. I use 1"x1/8" wall tube for the V shaped center bar. It goes from side to side and mounts to the axle with 1/2" grade 8 bolts in a double shear setup. There are 2 tabs that weld onto the axle. Then theres 2 crossbars that mount to the center crank and the frame on either side. these tubes are 1"x1/4" wall threaded for 5/8" pro series heims. On the dually V center I use a 2" tube with a Energy Suspension poly bushing setup.

look here for pics.



This is not a top of the line setup but a strong, well built, no nonsense drive it every day setup.

It also uses stover locknuts, not nylon, so you have no worry of anything ever coming loose.

Mike,
hey it Josh aka ICBM from the old Kenny Paul Cisco minitruck list.
I'm not looking to start a bunch of drama but I feel I need to defend my design a little bit. I know your background so here's a little about me. I've been in the car game about as long as you,been a shop owner, been baggin for over 10 years and have Welding/Mechanical engineering degrees with metallurgy emphasis.
I'm not saying there's only one way to skin a cat but don't knock my method till you've tried it.
As you know the watt's link is merely a locating device and really has nothing to do with lifting the truck. Removing any or all of a watts link would only pose a safety issue IF the vehicle was to be driven. Also factoring in to my design was that any service requiring removal of the cover would more than likely mean removal of the third member and axels, likely having the truck on a lift or jack stands.
With my design once all 14 rear diff bolts are removed the watts can be lifted or lowered enough to allow removal of 3rd member without anything more than if it were a stock rear-end. No ubolts, no bars, nothing just the 14 bolts that you'd be pulling anyway and well a bungee cord to hold the center ring up out of the way.

I also like the fact that NOTHING has to be welded to the rear end thus no chance for warping of the tubes or heat affected zones to make tubes more brittle.

ANY do it your-selfer with hand tools can install my brackets with nothing more than simple hand tools. No welding skills needed. I'll bet that alot more of your customers can't weld than can.

one last point I'm not here to sell anything... I got out of the biz along time ago. I'm on these forums to share information for FREE not to turn a buck so that's not what this is about but I felt the first sentance of your last post was meant to dig at my design and a rebuttal was warranted.

Josh
RunninLo

It's just Mike White. Shake that hater off, Bro.

OMG dont whore and bash on this thread it was very informative, no name callin on here now now boys play nice, now put down the gloves and grab some wrenches..

you could build a really really strong and large watts link and put bags on the "ears" of the center section having them share air and havea watts cantilever setup and possibly keep it all under the bed..be no sides but you drive a frickin dually..no need to show off any more than just showing up on the dirt//right? doubt it would lift very much but would look ...cool....

sup mike white lmao

Guys I don't want this to be a bash thread. My point was to show benefits of my design not open the door to past bs.
Please don't try to make it out to be something it's not.
Josh
Ps while I have known of Mike for a long time it is all internet stuff not fact. I have never met him and he has never wronged me personally so unless you have one on one experience don't just jump on some bandwagon. Think for yourself.

Pfft!

No bandwagon jumpin going on here. Just find it amusing that Mike White would visit us. Got to admit, He's a bit infamous.

Kinda like the John Wayne Bobbit of the Minitruckin world.