ben shadys truck

it looks realy good , for some reason the 24's look too tall under these trucks but this one looks good with them allmost makes me wonder if you widened the fenderlips /wheelopenings to the front and the rear to make the wheels look better , you didn't even had to stretch the rearfenders up to the edge of the bed to get it to lay out .

thanks for all the pics you made sofar it's realy helping me a lot doing my own truck in the future

I didn't do anything to the sheetmetal.. Just cut it all out. I didn't have to raise the fenders because the axle is so narrow it puts it far enough in that it doesn't hit the farthest part of the fender which is the lowest. I might raise them an inch just to give it a lil more room.. but it lays completely out without having to move them any. I'm just glad that I can still run the spikes and it tuckes them. Props to BLF for makin the arms. They work great. Only thing I'm gonna do to them is add swaybar mounts that way I can still run my factory swaybars.

ben did you nerrow your rearend or did you get a cab and chassy rear end I did a quick search but I didn't see it

It's a 14 bolt Cab and Chassis rear.. If I was to do it over again I would have just narrowed my factory rear so the pumpkin woulda been centered.. Woulda had alot more room to work with.

sweet I have a c&c rear under mine maybe one day I'll get it hung so I can put my 24's under it and get them out of my livingroom I'm more releved that I wont have to cut up my rear fenders

you having the same problem as mine did motor wise, trust me carb it, if you want give me a call and i can give you all the holley part number to do it and use you stock fuel pumps. i changed all those fucking sencors and the fucking computer too and no luck. Now i have a carb and it runs good.

Richie

the arms do look good holding up those 24"s i just might have to upgrade lol.

Richie

DAAAMMMNNN!!!

Somehow, I missed the pics. Looks great, Ben!!! Two thumbs up!!!




(I know, I know, quoting the pics is a noob thing to do. However, in this case, I think the pics deserved an encore. )

I missed also. Holy negative camber batman. Does look good.

Halfway there...

The temp sensor on the head is just for your dash gauge. It doesn't tell the ECM anything.

The actual CTS, coolant temperature sensor, is on the intake manifold near the thermostat housing. That's the one that tells the ECM what the coolant temp is, these usually fail in a way that makes them report colder than actual temp, causing it to run rich as shit.

Also beware you MUST use the correct temperature thermostat for a computer controlled engine, typically a 195F stat, or it won't let the engine get warm enough to go into closed loop.

FYI closed loop means the ECM is paying attention to all the sensors in order to adjust fuel mixture, timing advance, etc. whereas when the engine is cold, it's in warm-up mode - open loop - ignoring most of the sensors - rich fuel mixture, minimal amount of timing advance.

The throttle body engines really aren't hard to troubleshoot once you understand how they work, get the bugs out and they're rock solid reliable for a looooooooong time with no real maintenance needed. Best computer system ever IMO, yeah you can get more power with the 96-up Vortec engines but jeezus they're way more complicated and the parts cost a lot more.

Richard