What do you think a 2 link is worth??

uh huh.... i still want to see in writing on some site where it says its required....

With a panhard bar, it pulls the axle to the side. F.E.... the setup above^^^ the axle would get pulled to the left as the truck lifts, which stretches the u bolts and would end up makin em get loose over time.

The setup i used does not need a panhard or watts link b/c it does not allow lateral movement. I'm not tryin to be an ass but you don't know as much as you think.... I'm not sayin i know everything, i am far from that but i do know what i'm talkin about when it comes to this

My 2 link with a panhard on my burb had less than 3/4" side to side over 14" of lift.

A 2-link is absolute junk anyway.

i had no problem with the 2 link in my s10, threw the lift it might pull the axle a little bit, my suggestion to you would be to go onto streetsource and ask max fish about your setup and let him tell u how to do it, max is god when it comes to suspension.

that bar that u have weld between the links does nothin

the 2 link i had on my s10, similar to this one had 16 inches of lift and 0" side to side... but i'll ask BioMax, i have one post left on there so i'll use it on that haha

imo wouldn't the bushing ware out quickly if its a daily? why would you want to buy bushings every few weeks/months when you could just buy or build a par to minimize the side to side movement and eliminate the stress and wareing of the bushings?

I had tthe same bushings on my s10 2 link for a year and they were fine.... panhards create more side to side. Jus imagine the two 2 link setups workin in your head. Not even driving, jus sittin still. The panhard is harder on the bushings. A watts link works and does what its supposed to but the panhard doesn't.... YES it stops side to side movement but at the same time forces it as you raise and lower the truck

on a 2 link when the suspension travels your right the axle moves side to side. if you want no side to side movement you need to run either a watts link or a triangulated forward four link. thats why 2 links suck they provide shitty articulation for you without causing serious movements right and left, thast why they really should not be used on such an adjustable suspension where the travel range is so much. a triangulated 4 bar is built for this type of suspension, same with the watts link.

and your idea of that center piece keeping from lateral movements makes no sense. think of it this way: since the piece is welded in near the axle it keeps it the 2 bars aligned there, but what about at the frame? the bars are long, they will bend left and right because of the force of the truck moving forward and during turning. the longer the bars the more it will move right and left. You have control of the rear end along the line of the movement of the truck, but no lateral control of the rear end because there is nothing to stop it from jumping left and right.

do yourself a favor and do a triangulated 4 link, or a 2 link with a panhard or watts link


if your not going to take everyone's advice then oh well good luck building shitty suspensions that are dangerous and hacked, we're only tryin to help you out.

right.... its 2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4" wall tubing... I don't know what kind of metal you've dealt with but thats some beefy shit. Hell, frames are 1/8" thick... and they hold up jus fine. Why hasn't anyone shown me any text about this yet???

Top of page 3 I hope that's the proof your looking for cause like everyone else I'm not trying to be a a$$ or anything I just don't wont you to get hurt or others