Fuel Injection/Turbo questions.

But if my distributor is in the front I don't need to switch to DIS or a standalone, and I have a mechanical pump so I am thinking maybe I can just make a block off plate for the mechanical pump and plumbing in an inline pump? this sound like an ok set-up?

The pump would be properly installed by the tank, pre fuel filter (you need a new one of those too). You'll have to change all the lines anyway so as long as you are back there, might as well use a drop in, especially if it costs less and fits perfectly. It directly replaces the pick up tube in your carbureted truck tank. There is no drawback to an externally mounted pump except cost, the cheapest you will find is a Bosch style from 80's volkswagons and some mid 80's Ford trucks at around 110 dollars. In comparison I bought a whole B2600i tank with the pump for 25.

The stock distributor has too much advance for a turbo system. You can have it recurved if you can find anyone who will do it, but turbo applications need more control. Especially if you are using a stock bottom end with more compression than the engine the turbo setup came from. Care to speculate on how much recurving the dostributor would be? Are you sure you'll come up with the proper advance curve the first time you have it recurved? Will you be able to adjust it when you decide to add more boost? Any one of those reasons justifies an ignition upgrade.

It seems like everyone who asks about turboing a mazda wants to do it as cheap as humanly possible. Thats the wrong way to think about engine mods, and a good way to ruin a perfectly good truck. Sure you could use the stock dizzy, if you only want about 6 lbs of boost and dont mind detonation at WOT.

My BASIC EFI system with ignition cost ~800. Someone could duplicate it for a little less, but not much comparing feature for feature. I can turbo my engine by bolting the turbo on and doing some software changes (currently I have a 323 EFI intake and throttle body, the intake for the ITBS is being redesigned) without worrying about detonating my engine on the maiden run. I can go to a different cam and change both my fuel curve and ignition timing in minutes. I can "autotune" for economy and performance when I change any part of the engine, even going to a hotter plug.


I'm not saying you HAVE to do a standalone, but it would make more power, make it easier to tune, and just generally make more sense.

well why wouldn't the distributor off the donor turbo car work? it was set up for turbo engine?

How do you switch over to Distributorless ignition?

True, but it wasnt set up for YOUR turbo engine. It will work IF:

1) You use the donor turbo bottom end. Other wise the comression ratio is different and the timing curve would be wrong.

2) you use the turbo head, the distributor is on the REAR of the cyliner head and doesnt interchange. You may be able to swap guts... but see #1. If you use the turbo head you will cut the firewall for clearance.

Otherwise, using the Ford EDIS system requires you use the MegaSquirt fueling computer for your injection, and installing the trigger wheel is detailed in my above post. There is also a good writeup on the forums.

timing is controlled by a gear attached to your cam. So hwo is Compression ratios going to affect this?

This is a project truck I am putting together for my Lil bros 16th birthday, so I am lookign for easiest way. at first I was just gonna switch from Carb to Fuel Injection but I think he would have alittle more fun with a turbo so Im lookign for eaiset and cheapest way to do this all

Because if I use stock ECM the Map sensor will read increase in air flow and increase the amount of fuel injected

The spark intensity is gonan be the same with distributor or DIS.

Im confussed about what I have been told, am I wrong or what is goin on

you are listening to the wrong people.

The ECM WILL adapt the fuel delivery to a point, but only when the engine is warm, and not at WOT because the older turbo cars used a narrow band oxygen sensor. Also, if you use a stock truck long stroke bottom end, the fuel curve is made for a low compression short stroke engine. The O2 sensor will richen when lean, but under acceleration in open loop, the narrow band O2 will not react fast enough to a lean condition and you will detonate. It only takes one good knock to ruin a motor. If you reuse a stock turbo ECM, its cold idle characteristics will be those of the short stroke low compression turbo engine you removed it from, which is not the engine you will be running.

The spark intensity is not what you need DIS for. It is for the TIMING CURVE. So at XX MAP and XXXX rpm and XXX engine temp and XX TPS you can advance or retard the spark timing to prevent knock. With a dizzy, this spark timing is fixed by vacuum and rpm. Only. So at 3200 rpm, when a turbo engine with low compression should be "all-in" for advance, say +34 degrees advance, a TRUCK motor with high compression may be (WILL UNDOUBTEDLY BE) safer with a lower total advance. If you twist the dizzy to retard the midrange timimg advance, you are retarding the entire timing curve, so at idle when either an original turbo engine or a NA (or turbo'd) truck motor need +10, you will have +1 or another number.


This is why a standalone makes so much sense. You arent driving a late model Honda with a wideband O2 and fast ECU, the NEWEST parts you will be using are 15 years old. Think about the radio you used in 1991, have there been any technological improvements since then? The old Mazda turbos used Bosch style batch injection with a flapper AFM and no OBD. Thats the firepower equivalent of throwing rocks.

My senior design project was EFI with wasted spark ignition. They dont give away degrees for copying text from a Hot Tuner mag, we had to do all the research and be able to explain it to a panel of critics. I dont know what else you are being told, but I am pretty confident in my advice.

So just basic Fuel Injection is what I should do?

you can, but if you are retrofitting OEM EFI, I recommend you find a system from one of the rare fuel injected B series trucks.... Get everything including the distributor, harness, ECU, and the AFM.

If you do decide to use MSII and EDIS, you will be able to just bolt a turbo on when you want one. If you dont want to know how stuff works though the first option is the best.

won't the fuel injection off a probe, mx6, 363 or one of those just bolt up? I mean I would need the head, intake manifold, ECm and wiring right?