help with my 4 link??

^^ yea same here so that shouldnt be a prob with the bags over the axle ..right?

yeah bag over axel is fine, especially if you use the brackets provided with the 4 link, you will have to trim them to size to work perfectly for you, but yes that will be more than fine.

Check out the over the axle brackets with upper triangulated 4link tabs built in. Allows you to keep the bars triangulated more, and weld only to the axle tube and not the differential.

Yes this matters, You will have to do some measuring but to get the pinion angle to change to match the drive shaft the distance Height wise between the upper and lower link ends on the axle need to be greater then the distance heightwise on the link ends on the frame. But this depends on the length of the bars, Before you install your 4 link I would draw some diagrams to predict the motion of the 4 link through rotation to get it right where you want it.

50/50 (Forward/Reverse) style 4 links they are totally fine, The Main reason to have a 4 link is to keep the axle from twisting under acceleration, and they do that just as well as all forward links, ladder bars, etc.. A common problem with the 50/50 link set ups is the axle twists because the uppar bar frame mounts arn't high enough so the upper bar pull the axle towards the rear and the lower bars pull it towards the front. I made a Diagram to help explain



And here is how to set it up correctly with the Upper link bar frame mount installed higher then the mounts in the previous diagram the rotation of the upper link bar pushes the axle towards the front as does the lower link bar keeping the pinion right and eliminating twisting.



I'm not saying A Triangulated 4 link will not work I'm just saying all triangulated 4 links have the bushrings in a bind, but this binding is great for keeping the axle centered. Heres another Diagram Showing the Binding, Basically Since you have 4 Bars connected to the same Base and 2 of the bars rotate in the same direction and the other 2 rotate and 2 other directions different from each other the axle will be pulled to two opposite sides through rotation creating binding...




All your Link End bushings should be at 90 degrees related to the side of the frame rail (perpendicular) to have no binding

Here Is what I was talking about running a bolt through the frame, I couldn't find any pictures from the one I installed but this is the exact same way I did it. Drilled a whole through the frame ran a bolt and welded the head to the oneside, and welded the bolt in with a custom washer on the other side so the link bar wasn't pressed up against the frame rail.





^^^ Those two pictures I got off of FBI's website

Just because a Bolt goes through the frame doesn't mean its causing binding that doesn't make sense lol

Sorry for the Long over done explanation but lastly I HIGHLY HIGHLY DO NOT reccomend the Super Pivot Link Ends They are good for flexibility but not for daily driving, I speak from experience because I used them first on my 3 link on my Ranger, for ex here is how much side to side I got....




I hated how loose the rear suspension felt driving down the road, the flexibility of the super pivot ends are so great I could feel the axle lift up on one side to go over a bump while the truck remained level, again I highly DO NOT reccomend the super pivot ends, you want your truck to feel stable.

Good Luck on your install man! The only way to realy now how to install one is to install it by your self.

By just watching, helping, and reading tech articles you can only learn so much

HOLY MSPAINT! Haha.. great drawings though, I learned some from it!

mullet was saying it'll bind if you have your mounts on one end of the bar perpendicular to the frame, and then a different angle on the axle...but it doesn't really matter with johnny's cause he has heims, it doesn't bind like a bushing would

no bind 4link would be the bushings all perpendicular to the frame...it puts a lot of stress on the bushings and bolts, but you will have no binding that way

tri-4link binds through out their range of travel, it's their nature to, that's why they are sturdy setups, it's tight all through out its motion, but that tightness goes away as the bushing wears down

no binding and good setup = parallel 4link w/ panhard or watts

Oh guess I misunderstood him.



Actually there is more stress on the bushings,bolts, bars etc if it is in fact triangulated because of the binding, thats why Im against doing it that way but it still works. The pivot points are there to relieve some stress (pivot) but def agree about the parallel 4 link with watts link thats a very nice set up!

I think all of you guys summed it up mullet it and lownufftoy described it perfectly, I always recommend bags over top of the axle the ride will be a little rough but get shocks on it, I had mine mounted on the side of the axle and i never though about all the pressure going onto them untill one snapped on me on the highway but it was no big deal it was kinda sweet, cause every left hand turn id take id kick a 3 wheel lmfao.

hey thanx for all the help im gettin in the suicide doors four link soon but i already got the torsion bag kit and am starting my notches today is it preety easy even withthat stupid crossbar i nave to cut out and should i weld something else up first for support so that my frame will stay level??