want big brakes? something to ponder

thanks for the rating, fe3tcourier

BTW the pics on the Phattys site are for the new Mazda B2200 big brake kit that I think will be released this year, click on them and you can see the stock Mazda spindle he used for the prototype.

ROTFLMAO, "dragging" damn it, two years after first seeing that attached to madlowmazdas other screen name, i click now reading your post

dragging = dragging the chassis on the bricks

NOT

drag racing LOL

got a link for "max" ?

fred.

not much as far as bigger & total bolt in w/o paying mucho denero for the kits.

totally understand, unnecessary work is a pain in the arse.

me too, like the look & adjustablility of a bagged ride, but didn't want to go that far with the modifications to the suspension, so i'll just be really low static dropped....

i'll agree wit ya there, it is tite!

suggestion, get the rotors cryotreated, they will last longer and won't warp or crack on you.

I'd love to see a dyno sheet on that! there are those on here that have said even with a turbo, anything over 250 ponies out of the fe family of engines isn't do able....i'm personally hoping mine gets 200 @ the crank and it's gonna be naturally aspirated, but built to hold a small shot of nos if i so wish

Fred... lol...I never thought about that. If I had heard "dragging", I would have thought I meant drag racing too...lol...I just got used to my friends saying that. No, I don't have a link to Max but his shop is called Bio Kustoms, located in Hemet, California. He is also the resident suspension guru for streetsource.com and Mini Truckin' mag. He used to have a website but I think is is gone now.

warped rotors are a myth, they are cast, and dont warp, what happens is that they develop runout in the thickness from bauxite(sp?) and uneven wear and pad deposits, thats what makes them start to vibrate etc. the way to avoid it is to never come to a complete stop with them properly hot. that way the deposits are even around the rotor.

as for the 250hp from an f engine??? LOL, those people are full of shit! the F has made 400hp easy many times (usually on more boost than i was running, but i have lots of intake/exhaust mods), and plenty of 500 and 600 cars too, there is one in south africa in a little datsun ute making 800-900 and pulling sub 10s passes. all of them have the fe3 head though. there is one car in puerterico (sp?) that makes around 400 on the 2.0 8 valve, but i'm not sure what hes got, obviously a LOT. 350 is about max for the f2t engine realistically, but the skys the limit with two direct actuation cams. it screams, see this video for some proof (nearer the end there are a couple of straights, excuse my excitement, rwd, speeds in kph) :



enjoy,

fred.

that should have read rhd not rwd in the little disclaimer.

yeah, you can imagine how i felt just now when i realised! lol

I think the normal weight distribution for the stock Maz 2000,2200,2600i is about 55/45 on the front.If u r running aa V-8 in ur truck, I would bet u r in the 'hood of 60/40 or even 65/35 front.U probably could use bigger front rotors and some sort of ceramic/metallic pads.The rest of us underpowered wimps can do fine with the sand d's plus ceramics.I have then on my truck and they do a great job plus very little brake dust.I also know brakes and am running Mintex on my VolvoS40R.They are a very soft composition material made for racing and will not last long even if u r not running 350 hp.I am running 220 plus on the Volvo and wear out a set about every 6 months and I dont race.Plus they are dusty as Hell.BJ

i'm getting the first set of phatty's mazda brakes, ordered them back in july, just waitnig on him to finish them up and send them out then i'll install them and put up ppics

lies all lies, you didnt order shit, you just blew the money on Lucky beer and toothless indian boys

mmmm, indian boyssss