want big brakes? something to ponder

how many miles in those 6 months? my NA skyline has similar rotor sizing to the ute (a hair bigger) and i eat a set of pads (any type so far) in 3000 miles, and a set of rotors in 4 sets of pads. dust doesnt concern me, i'm not about looks. thats street driven too. just hard.

at the moment i have no rears at all. drums are totally useless for serious driving, and because i dont wanna put tiny rear disks on, i'll need big fronts to ensure a good bias. with a non "dumped" ute, under very hard braking, even with 50/50, there is little weight over the back wheels. its all leaning on the front. my truck is pretty far from standard too :-) i havent got to modifying the body, but it will go something like this : cut the front off, replace with frp/foam sandwich. add tow bar, smile when on the scales.

anything less than a race compound doesnt really satisfy me even on the street.

fred.

In 6 months I put about 5k miles on the R car.I also drive pretty hard as well.I personally dont like brake dust all over a set of very nice Enki wheels,so thats why the Mintex pads drive me a little nuts.Thay do stop good,however.

I will have to partially disagree with the first comment, all metal is suceptable to warping, more so with the more heat cycles it is put thru, especially cast.....forged metal is less likely to warp than cast. Now I will agree that in most circumstances the vibration is from uneven wear (runout differences) on the opposing sides of the rotor, & deposits like you said, but I can speak from experience, I had a set of rotors on my old '02 dodge that were warped and it was a brand new truck with less than a 100 miles on it....if your interested in the cryo treating, check out


that is kinda what I thought! heck if jegs can get @ 900 ponies out of a 4 cyl chevy cavy / colbalt, I figured 200-250 was practical from the nat. asp. 8v engine (400 from a puertorican 8v car, damn!), and more from the 12v & 16v heads with or without boost....

I read on one of the links which has a summary of what you have done that your running 10:1 comp, but I missed how much boost your running? I'd figure with that high of a comp. ratio, you couldn't be running too high of a boost w/o taking a chance of grenading the motor w/o some mad mods, and serious engine/boost managment system....anywhoo, mad props on the build! & I'd still love to see a dyno sheet on it just for grinn's & giggle's

I ran teh Pro Spindles (Mustang II drop spindles) from Wilwood. You can run any size rotor you want, and the steering possiblities are endless. In my case i'm doing a flaming river rack and pinion. You just have to make to set up the spindle correctly.

i've got a full on fuel system capable of feeding a 700hp engine under boost. its running 33% toluene which raises the octane to about 100aki (what you yanks falsely call octane ie r+m/2) or 105RON. i'm running 17.5psi straight from the wastegate. i've got 15degrees btdc timing in there, and its sweet and happy. its breathing chilled air from the GTR intercooler and holset mega efficient turbo. and its running 11:1 afr rich. its pretty safe as it is right now. engines dont grenade for nothing, they grenade because of detonation. i've got a megasuirt II same as madlowmazda, but with 4 cylinder coil per plug ignition, and ms2e code on it (more accurate and stable despite mine being an alpha). tuning can make the engine not blow at a given hp output, but if the comp ratio is too high for the octane, the retard you need to run will overheat things and fry the turbo.

simplistic hp = litreage * 87 * pressure ratio for an efficient 6.5k engine, then scale by your rpm/6.5k to get a semi decent optimistic hp figure.

hence 2.0 * 87 * 2.2 = 380hp which is about where i'm at

see here :



for some semi empirical proof :-)

you can have your dyno when i get back to nz and sort it out and get it on a dyno and drag strip. mean time, that threads about it.

the only other thing i can say is that it feels significantly faster than my mates turbo silvia on 12psi, and its probably a hair heavier so the hp kinda fits with the butt dyno.

fred.

Ah, I see, way more boost than I would have figured would be safe on mostly stock parts, but hey sounds like you've got it under control.

Nice formula, will put that down in my handy dandy note book.I have a Mr. Gasket Dyno program that I used to get an idea of what I wanted to put into my engine to get xxx amount of hp, kinda plug & play with different parts to see what makes the most hp, well at least the best of both worlds, hp & still being driveable on the street. With the mods I've picked to do to my 2.2 with the 8v head it showed that @ 6500rpm, it would put out right at 200 hp @ the crank, which is quite good for not being boosted or sprayed.

just giving you a hard time about the dyno , no pressure, & not saying that your not getting what you say you are, just would like to see it on paper.

duuuuuuude, i'd like to see it on paper too! or just drive it again, or even my skyline. in england insurance is compulsory, and i lost my licence once, so they wont insure me... so i cant drive. i havnet driven properly for 4 months

these vids are from 45m before i left the house to the airport :



i drove myself to the airport in my skyline and did some skids on the way. now i'm broke, carless, and jobless. and stuck in an overcrowded country... not good.

i have the headgasket over torqued too, but thats about it.

sorry for the chev/dodge mix up

fred.

well i've seen mine on the "hypothetical dyno" paper, and i'm tired of seein it there & would rather drive mine too....

sorry 'bout you license, hopefully you'll be able to get back home soon & play with the rides!

no harm, no foul on the ole switcheroo