tubbin n dubbin

So now letting the rim down, it stops because the upper arm holds it back, however at that point the center of the hub ia about 8 inches below the mid body line

You may want to hook up your steering shaft and notch just a little bit off the front of the control. Had to on mine. What size tire are you running? A MANS tire 245/35 20 or a little boys tire 225/30 20....LOL J/K for anyone who reads this and is running the little boys tire...LOL Are you going to triangulate your lower control arms?

No lowers are find the way they are...... haha and with those lil boys i have plenty room......I stuck my 22s on the front haha They are wrong offset so they hit fender but still tuck all way up to just about the hood, kinda have some ideas haha

I am gonna get everything operational before I paint polish or chrome anything, thanks fer the tip on the column, I am tryin to figure out how and where to move all of the steering componentry inside the frame rails to accomplish some more steering radius, as of now my tires rub the parts connected to the frame, so that my help with that issue and I may not need to notch my arm on top.

As for tire size, I bought them so long ago I would have to go look at this point to see exactly what they are for width, but I think they are 235 and for sure 35 20
I was actually gonna post that I plan to wear these down and get 30 series profile up front , I want to drive it slammed as much as possible and smaller diameter means more steering radius

As for lower arm triangulation, I am thinkin bout how I want to go about it exactly.
I have a pipe bender and a good welder, Iwas gonna make tabs to the frame in a mirored location to where the control arm bolts on and run a tube with a bend in it welded into the side of the control arms front side, I've it done I think seth did it before.
I have access to very little in the way of parts available where I live. I have heim joints available , very very expensive though bar end bushings are not readily available .
I could buy shocks and cut the ends off.......... that would be a waste.
I'll figure something out. So as far as triangulation goes......... to be continued.................

Keep in mind that the tierod, probably will come in contact with the tension rod all the way down unless you space the tension rod down. So keep in mind you might have to do something with that depending on how low you plan on driving and steering. Just trying to help out.

i cut off the front rod that connects to the underside of the lower control arm, I figure get rid of that and triangulate, lets put it this way the design of it looks turd delish,, like i cant think of a cheesier way of designing that part of the suspension.
like some guy said, we're over budget on this front end we need to save another 50 bucks, pathetic!

all it is is a couple rubber rings and a solid bar with threads on one side, and 2 holes in the other.
okay i'll stop ranting now..............................

That stabilizer bar can't cycle the full lift and drop of the suspension on 20s anyway. . . You'd have to space it big time or triangulate. . I triangulated mine. .

And NC4LIFE, I'm gonna be runnin little boy tires But I also have a 3.25" BD. . so my lil boy tires will jus about be touchin my lil boy hood when laid out

But ya know. . I'll stay under the porch and let you roll your big ass muddin tires around on your 20s hahahaha

-Josh

You mean my SUPER SWAMPERS!!!!! I'm going muddin....WOO HOO

It's all personal expericence. I've ran smaller profile tires and always had bad luck. Up here in the north our roads are crappy, potholes from the snowplow trucks can eat your tires for breakfast

Ya mane. . I feel ya. . If I was actually gonna be drivin my truck. . I woulda set it up for a 35 series. . But its a show/sunday driver. . So I think I can be extra careful the few times I drive it. . haha. .

Ok, sorry, we are jackin the thread. . MORE PICS! ! ! !

-Josh

i think more meat on the tire doesn't look good. thats why i went low pro with 225 30's. plain and simple.