How should I fix my C notches

Wouldn't it be eaiser to just cut out one C notch at a time, replace with bigger ones then raise upper bag brackets up. To me that seems pretty easy, or am I missing something? I would like to backhalf it but I know it would take me a long time probably. The truck hasn't ran or drove for 3 years so I really want to get it up and going again asap.

thanks.

Would this work? If I cut 2" up into my C notch that leves me with 2" left and plate the bottom of the notch. Or maybe go up 2 1/2" that will give me room for 1/4" plate with a little room to spare. Then for my bag brackets add 1 or 2 peices of 1/4" steel to top of C notch and move bag bracket up. And for the rip in the frame just plate over it.

thanks.

Do it right this time man, don't hack it worse then it already is... Backhalf is the only right way to fix that mess!

To the max.

Alright.... going to back half it!!! When I measure the rearend to put it back in the same place far as the measurements do I go from say the back of the cab to center of axle on both sides? And how about the diagnol measurements where do I get those from? Also do my frame rails need to be a certin height off the ground when I take these measurments? What about makeing sure my pinon is in the same spot far as it rolling up or down when I mount it back. When I cut the frame I'll probably cut it a few inches behind the rip I have in the frame towards the cab so I can save the upper and lower mounting tabs for the 4-link already welded to the frame. I'm going to take pictures as I do this to make sure I'm doing it right.

You could go off of the back of the cab (assuming the cab is square with the frame) but I would recommend going off identical spots on the frame. Try the mounting holes for the emergency brake cables where they attach to the frame near the back of the cab. Attach a piece of wire to one the mounting bolts on each side, stretch it to a location on the opposite end of the rear axel (say the lower front bolt where the backing plate mounts to the rear axel). Do the same for the other side. Now your wires should form an X. Both wire should be exactly the same length.

Once you have done the above and assuming your frame is sitting on the ground or say 2x4's for a little additional cutting room, go ahead and cut the frame. Leave the wires in place so that you can reindex your axel.

As for the pinion, it should be basically level throughout the range of axel travel.

If possible, take an overhead pic, and use paint brush program to show where you plan to cut. Or use it to ask specific questions (point to locations).

What is the paint brush program and how do I use it in the forums? Is that were I've seen people use lines to identify parts on there trucks in the forums?

MS Paint. Put your picture in it, draw lines, save it, then upload the picture to a picture host and post it here.

paint should be in the start menu... if you have windows. microsoft paint. load your overhead pic in paint, draw on it, save it again, and upload it. its pretty easy. you can't ask too many questions, so go ahead and ask away. there's enough people on this forum that can help you out. trust me and everyone else that said a backhalf is easier than fixing that... work. i hope you will take the time to find out all you can about welding, metal fit, and suspension geometry. you can do it... just learn and practice first!