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Mazda Projects \  Slam Specialty(UPDATE: 7-21-08)

Slam Specialty(UPDATE: 7-21-08)

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elbine69   +1y
Haha you can drive in the rain but the whole engine bay will just need a good cleaning afterwards.
mazdawg(mikey)   +1y
believe me you wont be the first to cut out your wheel wells. driving in the rain is no issue. try notching the wheel well where the uca is and go from there.
immortal1 (linn)   +1y


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Hope this helps. Got a pi of the pass side if you want it
hex0rz   +1y
Thanks, immortal! I would have updated by now, but it has'nt been great weather lately...

Immortal, did'nt you say your daughters truck is running 26" OD?

-I noticed the ball joints are flipped, how does that affect the bag setup?
- How big are those tubs? I think I got mine at 7x28.

Can you take a tape measure and give me a measurement from the top point of the tub to the top of the inner well?

Just trying to get an idea of where mine will sit...
immortal1 (linn)   +1y


Yes, running 26"od tire.

It helps some with the uppers flipped. UCA does not have to pivot as far and negative camber is slightly less. But honestly, should not make a huge difference.

Originally I thing the tubs were closer to 9" wide.

3 7/8" from top of tub to inner/outer fender joint.
hex0rz   +1y
Update?

Immortal, since you are the closest to having the same setup as I, can you tell me if this is where your wheel sits? It does'nt seem logical that this wheel size has to go up this far to make it lay? I can't tell accurately as I only have a 4ft. level to stick on the frame rail and its just on there as best as I can get it.

I'd let the truck off the stands to see if it does lay, but I don't think I could get it back up!

The angles are a little off, but this is a general description... I cut out the whole wheel well, no more playing around!

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It appears that it will lay crossmember now... This is a 25.5" OD tire so I've been compensating for that 1/2".

Yea, if this thing is'nt laying off of all this cutting, then sheesh, I dunno what else it will take, lol!

BTW, immortal, I appreciate your wisdom and patience but if your not too busy would you mind snapping 2 pics for me?

Or, if you can understand when I explain this to you, you can just give me a yes or no...

1. As you can see above, the wheel hits the well in that spot. If it has to go up further, you cut out the part of the firewall?
2. Where the battery tray fit, where does the tub sit?

I'm trying to see if the tubs ends sit level to each other or if the firewall tub end sits higher than the battery tray tub side. Make any sense?

LOL! And you know you need to start working on your project again when there is spider webs already!
immortal1 (linn)   +1y


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Yes, it rubs some.
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Couple of things here. The strut rod will rub hard on the idler arm when layed out. Installed a spacer between the LCA and the strut rod with longer bolts so that I cna still turn some when layed out. Also, created a spacer for the lower ball joint to give the strut rod a little more room. Seth had a better idea with modifing the LCA to create an "A" arm and get rid of the strut rod. IMA my route was less work.
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Area where tub meets original sheet metal, passenger side front. Note batt sitting front to back.
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Area where tub meets firewall (same as your pic, but with tub installed)
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Drivers side where tub meets original sheet metal.

Hope all the above helps.
hex0rz   +1y
Thanks IMMORTAL! Yes, it did help!

Man, you sure did a good job suaving that tub into the driver side, lol!

When you welded the tub in on the firewall was the dash out? Dev told me his little story welding on the firewall. He caught the sound deadener on fire, lol!

Hope I don't...

I'm interested in seeing how you mounted the battery? Looks interesting...
immortal1 (linn)   +1y
Dash was in, carpet & backing were out.
Best I could do on the battery tray...
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If I remember correctly, whats holding the tray up is the stock brackets. The tray was simply repositioned and welded to the stock brackets.
dragginmazda86 (dave)   +1y
No update's Anthony!! You been slacking or what, lol.