threads
Page 1 of 6
Mazda 2.2L \  Cooling issue

Cooling issue

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 6552
replies 58
following 8
 
imrjbitch   +1y
So, ive been chasing a cooling issue for quite some time now and its getting unbearable how I've still not found the source yet.

Here's the problem: after the thermostat opens and cools the engine down with the flow, the temp with go up (obviously) haha but the thing is, it creeps up continually. I've never actually let it touch hot as i'm aware of head gasket issues for our trucks. but its gotten quite close. Especially since the weather is starting to warm up.

Here's what I've replaced:
Fan clutch
Upper and lower hoses
Thermostat

I was thinking about doing timing and water pump but my uncle said that if there is visible flow in the radiator, it doesn't need to be replaced yet. But i'm still thinking about doing it.

Another thing, I read online that if there is a gurgling noise after you shut the car off that its your radiator cap? Is that true? If so then I'll replace that as well and see if that changes anything before getting the 2 row
Cusser   +1y



my uncle said that if there is visible flow in the radiator, it doesn't need to be replaced yet.

Not true at all. Original radiators (1-row) are quite old now, so build-up internally inhibits cooling/shedding of heat. My B2200 had the same issue in 2010, I tried several things (an operational thermostat will NOT inhibit cooling, don't run without one, Mazda or Stant), but the cure was the new radiator, 2-row as the Arizona heat, extra weight of Cab Plus, running AC, uphills on highway (where it was most affected) demands all the cooling I could muster. I still use stock fan clutch/fan set-up (Hayden fan clutch).

2-row all-metal copper/brass Ready-Rad radiator: #433140 from O
imrjbitch   +1y
thanks for your reply cusser.

i was talking about the water pump when i was referring to what my uncle said. haha

the radiator on the oreillys website says its copper and brass? is that a mistake and it is indeed a 2 row aluminum? would drilling holes void the limited lifetime warranty?
mazdatweaker_2   +1y
I'd look really carefully at the radiator cap. Just before I throw it away and replace it with a new unit. My .02 is you replace the really cheap things first on the way to replacing the really expensive things.

Cracks in the gasketing will cause the symptoms you are describing.
sincitylocal   +1y
Yep. My neighbor bought a pristine Camaro for $500 because the owner thought it had a bad head gasket. $7 radiator cap and the car sold for $3700 two days later.
imrjbitch   +1y
Hmm thanks a lot for all the replies! I will definitely try that asap! And ill let you guys know if it is unsuccessful!
vsawmike   +1y
If the radiator has never been taken apart and cleaned out that is probably the culprit. It needs to be taken apart and rodded out. That's where they run a steel rod down each tube top clean it out. That and a bath in the caustic soda will loosen it all up and have it working almost like new.

The cap can be tested at any parts store. Usually they have a cap tester. Over time cap springs get weak and/or seals go bad. Just because one holds a little pressure does not mean it's good. It can be sealing up but not pulling coolant back in at night.

Plus when filling a system you need to let it run with the cap off until the thermostat opens. Then add more coolant.
imrjbitch   +1y
Update, got a new Murray radiator cap, and no progress. I was wondering if maybe because my thermostat is not OEM would that cause it to run hotter?
vsawmike   +1y
Depends on what temp the thermostat is. It's always best to test the thermostat before installing to make sure it opens all the way. Heat it in a pan of water until it opens. If you have boiling water before it opens or it doesn't open all the way you have an issue. Your issue is most likely the radiator being stopped up enough to run hot. If it's the one row it does not take much for it to run hot.
imrjbitch   +1y
the thermostat i got was to run cooler? i think its either 170 or 180. but i know it was to run cooler and not oem.
but i have jus asked oriellys to see both the radiators in person before buying. i just wanna make sure theyre both aluminum.

and even if there is visible flow, would that mean that the radiator is still the culprit?
im jus trying to explain and get answers. but thanks for all the replies. i will update accordingly when problem is solved.