1986 B2000 2.5 T Diesel FOR SALE $750obo

Em, I got my whole trailer class 3 hitch custom installed on my wife's 02 Tacoma for $100. It had to be custom made since I put a fiberglass rear valence where the rear bumper used to be.

Your not too far away from me, and this place that did the work is just down the road from me if your interested.

And, they said they would sell, and install a 5k winch on my trailer for something around $500. Which included a controller.

I can't wait to see this thing running either. I installed my new IP today. Wasn't that bad installing it with the transmission jacked up from below, although tighter space than I wanted to work with.

Tried cranking it, having 2x marine batteries makes that starter spin FAST! But no start I am going to verify that the cam/crank timing belt is aligned tomorrow, then verify that my cam/ip belt is aligned as well. I tested it out before trying to fire it and after multiple rotations the marks lined up right. Probably going to mark my crank pulley and timing belt housing so I can have some external timing marks. I have to pull covers to see if my crank is in position or not

So, plan for tomorrow:
1. Rip off crank pulley, verify that front TB is aligned right. Mark housing so I can tell in future without having to rip anything.
2. Verify rear TB, make sure is aligned.
3. Put on clear tubing for supply and return lines, just to see if fuel is indeed flowing like it should. Maybe install electric pump for assist.
4. Verify that I do not have any fuel leaks on return side and injector return, some of those fittings are tiny and could be potential source of leak
5. Verify glow plugs are warming up.
6. Drink a beer after getting start-up video
7. Go back to work Friday celebrating success

You know it never goes as planned......remember, Murphy's law is in effect on all us poor, bastard, wrencher's.

Sounds like you may have a problem with priming? Make sure and start it over while cracking the injector lines open one at. Time to drain air out. It will never crank if there is air in those lines

Before work I attempted to crank the truck with the fuel lines off the injectors. Not a drop came out at the injectors. I know that there is no blockage from the fuel tank because I pulled fuel up using my hand vacuum pump. Wondering if there is a clog inside this new pump or if I am overlooking something simple. I did test to see if I had the supply/return reversed but that didn't make a difference. Maybe it is time I put an external pump on it to see if that makes a difference?

Oh, and I did remember to wire in the cutoff switch and tested it both on and off, no difference.

Well I got myself a Harbor Freight diesel compression tester today, I was eager to use it when I got home. I noticed that in the instructions that they even had listed the Mazda and Ford 2.0L and 2.2L in their application chart So I took out the glow plugs and started to test #1. On the second 'pulse' compression was at 360, fourth pulse it was at 420, and it stayed there until I hit the release a minute later. It did not climb above 420psi. So I'm thinking that this is great news with factory spec of 427psi on an engine that has 0 miles on it.

So then I proceed to test #2, only gets up to 200psi after 10 pulses, and drops rapidly down to like 20. s***!!! Then I get the same results for #3 and #4, so I am starting to think that I have a bad HG or something. Out of curiousity, I decided to test #1 again, and much as what I expected, it had no pressure as well. F*cking defective tool died after first cylinder test!!! Pressure was actually being drained from the pressure relief button and it wasn't sealing there.
I have a feeling that I have good pressure across all 4 cylinders. Also seeing 420psi on #1 I have good reason to believe that my timing is set appropriately for cam/crank. I also noticed that my glow plugs were wet and a little charred, leading me to believe that I am getting fuel in there. So my guess is that I am not getting enough fuel for combustion or that my injector pump is not timed right.

On an up note, I did go back and exchange the defective unit, so I should be good to try the test again.

damn cheap ass tools..lol

I have never had a problem with HF tools...besides pressure testers and leak downs....hope your next test is good ...

Well I put the replacement compression tester to work, I think that I'm just gonna return this piece of garbage as the pressure relief didn't work on this one AT ALL unless I loosened the nut that holds the button in place. Anyways,

dry:
390
480
420
420

I tested #2 multiple times, and that is what I kept getting.

wet:
480
480
510
480

Hmm, I thought factory spec was 427 max? I'm wondering why I got such a different result from #2 versus the others? Do note that this is on an un-broken in engine, so the rings haven't had a chance to seat yet.

I tried cranking her again, electric fuel pump with clear fuel lines brought up an interesting issue, I'm about to just say f*ck it and use the gas can approach the next chance I get, I wasn't pulling up much fuel at all with the electric pump, maybe I do have a clog in tank that is slowing down flow? All signs are pointing that I should have a running truck by now. Ah well.....
__________________

I tried to get her running again today. Using the clear line to see what was going on I first tried to get her to crank using my electric lift pump. I learned that the pump is worn/old/clogged and not pumping anymore.

So next I tried removing the electric pump and just hook up my fuel supply directly to the IP. I used my hand vacuum pump to pull fuel from the tank to the pump (also seeing if I had a clog in the tank/lines) and I got some fuel up. Then I cranked her with the injector lines cracked at the injectors. I noticed that there was an air bubble in my supply line and it wasn't going away. I figured, eh, reconnected the injectors, and tried again. I believe that the internal lift pump does work as I saw fuel being lifted and flowing, I also earlier noticed that fuel was splashing from the injector lines (but not very much.)

Determined to try to get that air bubble out of my supply side at this point, I used my hand pump again at the return side and started pumping. I was getting fuel to flow into my collector but that air bubble was going NOWHERE. I then disconnected power to the fuel disconnect switch, removed the vacuum pump (which still held 22 in/hg) and I saw bubbles coming back up the fuel supply line!

Question here, if the disconnect isn't energized, shouldn't the fuel return being disconnected NOT allow air to go back to the supply line, or does it only cut fuel from going to the injector rails?

If that air bubble refuses to go inside the pump, wouldn't that indicate a weak internal lift pump?

With the injector lines cracked, shouldn't I see large splashes of fuel or little piddle splashes? (I'm talking a very little amount here, an empty spray bottle with a very small amount of liquid/mostly air in the tube sized splash.)

One more thing, when I was pumping with the hand pump, I saw a lot of little bubbles in the pump line. I figured some of it was due to the loose connection that the vacuum pump had on the return line (it was only a slip on connection, I didn't clamp it or make it secure.) I will try tomorrow using clamped hose nice and air tight to see if it goes away or if it's the same.

Will too much air in the IP make the lift pump seem weaker?