1986 B2000 2.5 T Diesel FOR SALE $750obo

well f**k.......

After a lot of testing on my part, it seems that my IP just isn't up to the task of running an engine. I don't know if it wasn't stored properly, if it really didn't come from a known running vehicle, or if I damaged something while using an electric lift pump or siphoning fuel through the return using a manual vacuum pump.

What I do know is that I can't get the air bubble from my main supply line to go through. The lift pump does seem to function to some degree, and there is blue smoke that is spewing from the exhaust during cranking, and the air bubble does move down some during the cranking, but I don't get enough uumph! to start Redemption up.

So, I am out $275 for a 'known good pump that was stored properly' for whatever reason and am left with 2 near worthless cores that need rebuilding. Guess this is on hold until I get an extra $550 to rebuild one of the cores. Oh, and it's gonna be the 87 Topaz core that I rebuild. It seems to be a rarity and a gem of some sort.

Well I have been working on this project still. Even though I was trying to get it running I still had a lot of work to do to finish the project up, I just wanted it to run dammit!

Anyways, I got focused on putting the turbo back together, I figured out why I had too much free play on the shaft, fixed the issue, and it is now good like it should be. So, I installed the turbo I still need to run the air supply from the turbo to the intake, and that isn't going to be too easy either. But I did get the coolant and the oil routed properly to the turbo, and primed the oil to search for leaks.





I also got to work on making a proper hard line for my fuel supply. I didn't like using a long hose routed over the engine permanently, I just had it like that for testing and diagnostic purposes. What I did was to take the vacuum supply for the brake booster, bent some spare line from my EFI conversion to fit, welded it on, tested for leaks (and cleared a clog) painted and installed. Here are some pics of this:






I also have been busy on the vacuum system. Although I still have to route the lines for the warm-up and the AC and the PS compensators, I was able to get it together and perform a test. Needless to say I had good results. Here are some pics of this setup and a video of the test:





Remaining items, other than obvious tuning and injector pump BS, includes:

1. A hard line for the fuel return. In hind sight, I probably should have incorporated this onto my fuel supply hard line because it is right friggin there. I am likely to take off the old one and to do just that, using either red or blue to identify that it is a return.

2. Getting the accelerator cable mounted to the IP. This should be pretty easy actually, but I wanna wait until I get the proper injector pump ready and installed.

3. Figuring out how I am going to mount my heater core return hard line. This part is already made but when I test fit it, it was merely floating above. I wanna make it a solid installation that resembles a factory setup.
4. Finishing turbo to main exhaust pipe. I just gotta get the length correct and make sure that it clears everything. I should be fine here. This might also involve making a heat shield to protect the vacuum pump, fuel lines, oil lines, and coolant lines.

5. Installing my sensor for my exhaust temp gauge. It doesn't fit in the hole for the oxygen sensor, too small and I can't find an adapter.

6. Brakes for the front. Sitting too long on a dirt driveway has caused a lot of splash up, seizing at least one wheel. I know that this is likely to involve rotors, pads, calipers, lines, and wheel bearings. My shoes and drums were fine last I checked, however I may front the money to get new cylinders as well.

7. On the off chance that my little ATF SNAFU ruined the seals I am prepared to replace the master and slave for the clutch, and the brake booster. E2000 was telling me that the B2600i booster was a bit bigger, maybe I can take a look into this? Thoughts?

8. Ranger headlights need to be installed, as do brake lights. This is so I can drive it legally.

Get this thing on the road!

Wanna buy me a rebuilt IP? Lol. That is what I am ultimately waiting for, the funding o get mine rebuilt and refined for a turbo.

thanks guys. Today I was helping the GF with her new car, a 2001 Mercury Cougar Zn. It's a fun little car with a speedometer sensor that was seized up like a motherf*cker. Replacement part comes in tomorrow AM at the parts store. It's a Delphi, which I think is a stock OEM sensor for FoMoCo, I could be wrong here. I've changed these Ford sensors out before, but never have I seen plastic seize to aluminum. No pics of her car at this time, some to come later. This is one that I will be taking care of for the two of us, but it is definitely HER car, not mine. This seized sensor is what knocked the price down from $4000 to $2600

More to come with the truck probably this weekend, but I might sneak in a return line for the fuel earlier than that.

Here is some more. I finally got some time with some half decent weather today (until it started raining.) I decided that I didn't want the front end of my truck looking like trash anymore so I hopped right onto the headlight conversion again. I had a lot that I needed to modify, part of which included making my own mounting hardware since I didn't have a complete set from the Ranger that I got the lights from.

So, here is an initial mock-up on the passenger side, note that it isn't bolted or anything at this point, yet it somehow looks sexy


Now to make some mounting hardware. I had luckily one part of the original setup. I also have the original adjuster for one light, but it makes the light stick too far out, too far for my liking.


So, what I did was to take 2 of the original headlight screws and ground down the heads a bit, keeping them round. This allows me to 'pop' the headlight into the piece that is on the headlight. I need to take a pic of that to clarify what I mean here.
Then, I ground down the head on some spare bolts that I had in the shop. I think they came from a trunk hinge from a Jeep Grand Cherokee. To make them adjustable, I took a nut and used loctite on them. Next, Mr. Grinder entered in and polished off the nut so my wrench could be used to adjust as necessary. Finished product:


Here is the hardware mocked up on the radiator core.


With a headlight:


And a cleaned out grille. This grille will meet some fiberglass resin to smooth it out.


Now a treat, another upgrade. You know what these are?


Here's a hint It is from an older Benz.


Give up? It is used in snow conditions to keep the headlights clear.


Why else would I need to add fiberglass to the grille

iv thought about doing the head light wiper...hurry up and get it done so i can see it

I sure hope that the weather holds out down here and stays warm. If it gets too cold I'm back inside.

Ditto on the weather.

$500 for an IP rebuild kit, wow! Wonder how much a new IP would cost?

more on this build. I welded in the nuts to the radiator core and am in the process of getting everything aligned.



Don't criticize on the blue paint, it's protecting the metal from rust. I need to get some flat black to cover that up once I finish cutting out the hole for the headlights.


Headlights on their own support


And with the grille in place. I still need to tweak the position of the headlights, and realign the bumper because it is slanted.


Looking at this, I definitely need to do the clear corners to make it look a lot better. The crack on the passenger side corner light will help to hasten this.

About the IP, the rebuild price has been quoted around $500, I haven't called your father yet as I don't have the money and don't want to call an individual until I have the funding to get the service. The kit can be gotten for under $100, it's the skill for the actual pump rebuild, tuning and priming is what brings up the price.