turbo V8, ultimate b2200 conversion, "Stranger". Final pics

I feel the same way about long projects, but then i realize that if i wasnt building my truck i would be building another vehicle. It never ends lol.

So might as well just spend the time and money on what you enjoy doing!

Plus we all enjoy the updates!

You should bring it over here and lemme use my new tig welder on it.

Hey, don't tempt me.......lol. I would LOVE to have a nice tig welder, but funds don't allow just now.

Here is my latest issue.

The passenger side door has a grey haze in the clear.

I think what happened was that it was border line too cold to paint that day, and I just repainted the door with the clear, and it turned that kinda grey color.


For some reason it REALLY looks noticeable in the pic's., and keep in mind that the door in the pic's has been sanded and buffed, just like the fender.


I think it might have gotten some humidity in the paint as well.

I've got about four coats of clear on this due to several little screw ups, like the air hose in the wet paint trick, so I know there is lots of paint not to mention the black I started with.

Yesterday I started to sand it with some 1k paper. I didn't see any results so went with my electric sander and 400 grit, wet sanding. Then I went back to 800, 1k, 1.5k, then 2k grit paper, then buffed with the M105, then M205.

There is still a noticeable difference between the door and the fender.

Question, can I just clean the door off with mineral spirits {to remover some of the wax, etc} then scuff it up with 400 grit and shoot another coat of clear, or will I need to sand all of the haze out before I clear coat?



Thanks in advance.

Can't say I have ever ran into this problem before but I would say you are going to have to spray black over it then clear again. All the new clear is going to do is magnify what's underneath it. If there is any haze left you will still see it. What clear are you using? 400 grit is way to rough to clear over I use 800 for clear and 600 for base coat

I wish it were that simple MD, but since I have the painted letters I would have to buy another stencil and repaint the letters.

Another route could be just to sand it back down to the black under the clear.

I've ask this question on the paint forums so maybe someone who does it for a living can shed some light.

I paint cars for a living been doing it now for almost 10 years. The problem with sanding just the clear off and leaving the base is the clear is much harder than the base coat. So once you break through the clear it's only going to take a few passes to sand through the base coat to the primer underneath. Then you are going to have to spray more black base over the sanded through areas and hope you don't have any lifting issues.

Yep your right. I will just have to tape the stenciled letters with some thin tape that I have laying around.

Then paint it back with black. Actually the black is single stage urethane with clear over it.

Ok, I finally got the AC hoses done. This was a little bit of a departure from what I originally wanted to do, which was use hard line all of the way, and connect the ends with a 45 deg flare fitting.

The setback for today's festivities were $265

The AC guy was amazed at how many ft of line I had to use with the remote setup........lol. I was amazed to see the bill.

OUCH!!!
I'm glad I hard lined mine.
With tubing, fittings and hoses, I was less than $100

From another painter." amen on that".