87 B2600 Ford 302 Build

I used two 11" Spal pusher fans on the front of the radiator. They work great and I don't have any overheating issues. I could have fit some smaller thin pulling fans on the back side of the radiator, but I wanted more CFM so went with the larger pushers.

well if I can clear up the space for it, I'm going to have regular puller fan. If you went from the front you must not have the A/C condenser & stuff right?

Correct I don't have A/C on my truck. Never had it from the factory either.

My buddy and I built a '88 Mazda with ford 302. We used a '79 block and its carb'd, short water pump and pulleys. ended up having a bracket made for the belt tensioner and alternator. It was pretty simple in the end. you end up paying $120 for the water pump and the short pulley kit was around 200. 94 mustang alternator, 94 water pump, 88 mustang gt shorty headers. right now I'm looking into getting long tube headers, not quite sure whats going to fit yet. If you have any questions or would like pictures I'll try my best to answer them. I am still new to this forum and getting used to everything so far.

What are you doing for a fan; water pump mounted fan or electric fan?

We ended up running dual electric pusher fans in front of the radiator. Ran an on off switch for the fans. Now I'm wishing it had a thermostat so they would turn on by themselves. We also ended up removing the hood latch to make room for them. Drilled holes in the hood and used hood pins. I WOULD ADVISE AGAINST THAT! I forgot to pin the hood and it came flying up at 45 mph and that's why I don't have a hood. Right now I'm working on finding a new hood and making a new bracket of the hood latch.

Thanks for that tip. I am hoping I can squeeze a radiator in without removing that hood latch. Which style motor mounts are you using? I see they have the offset "Fox Body" style which depending on which side you put them on, will put the engine either forward or back of the frame bracket by about 3 inches, or the earlier style (which came on my 69 F100 302) which has the stud center mounted (which I believe most 70's cars like Mustang II and Maverick had).

this is the best pic I have at the moment.

Didn't modify the front clip to get a rad to fit. it was just that the fans were just too close to the hood latch.
we has an 88 mustang gt as a donor vehicle that we got the t-5 tranny and the motor mounts from. Did the classic left to right swap and she fits pretty close to the firewall- leaves just enough room for the park cable to fit behind the head. I don't know if all fox body engine mounts are the same or not- but you don't need the convertible mounts like I have read on here (besides I don't think they are different at all). drilled new holes in frame near where the stock mounts are located. had to move that crossmember forward an inch or half and inch to clear the rear sump oil pan. This job is easier then you might think. We started it jan 1st and had it driving may first. Did it in a garage without air tools (but a hell of-a-lotta runs to the local napa). had to have someone make the driveshaft, had a buddy modify the tranny and engine crossmember with a welder, and a machinist mock up a belt tensioner bracket and alternator bracket. if you want some close up pics of something just let me know and ill take some tomorrow or something.

CHEVELLEx makes a lot of good points. I relocated the hood latch on the bottom of my hood because I modified the core support.





PS - Hood pins are ugly and "ricey"

Im using solid convertable motor mounts the convertable motor mounts sit the engine lower than the normal mount they did that in the mustang to let the convertable have a lower center of gravity but yes they do differ between hatchback and convertable mounts