87 B2600 Ford 302 Build

Ok, a few clearance issues, any suggestions are welcome.

1. No clearance where the trans dipstick comes up beside the tranny and up behind the passenger side cylinder head. Its against the trans tunnel right before it makes the bend to come up (AOD).

2. Drivers side cylinder head too close; the valve cover is actually up against the rubber grommet for the speedometer cable.

3. Oil pan is resting on the crossmember/brace. From looking at the motor mounts, I would say it needs to go down another 1/2 inch, if the brace was lower.

Yep, I had to relocate the grommet for my speedo or parking brake on the firewall. I think it was my parking brake that was close to the valve cover.

Also I needed to modify the cross-member under the oil pan.

So, I got some spacers to mount between the motor mount and the engine block to raise the engine 1 inch, and I redrilled the motor mount brackets so as to move the engine 3/4 inch forward, now I have clearance at the valve cover to cable area (not sure if this is speedo cable or parking brake cable), and I have clearance between the crossmember and the oil pan. All great news.

Looking for any suggestions about tranny crossmember, I know somebody said 90's era Lincoln Town car crossmember, is that the same as a similar era Crown Vic? Worse comes to worst I can make something out of square tubing but I think a factory crossmember will be stronger so I'd rather go that route.

Did anybody have to relocate the parking brake cables? I see they are right in the area where the driveshaft will go, too close for comfort in my opinion. The factory trans sat a little further back so the driveshaft yoke was not too close, but now that I have an AOD I'm a little close.

Why not just go with a t5? It want hard for me to put mine in and hook everything up just a wilwood master and slave cylinder used my factory pedal

I'm not sure what your opinion on transmission choice has to do with any of my questions, but thanks for the suggestion. What did you use for the crossmember?

I used the factory transmission crossmember and slotted the holes and used a T5 mustang transmission mount.

I didn't have to relocate the parking brake cable, but it does touch the muffler. Doesn't seem to be any issues though. The metal cable isn't effected by the heat of the exhaust.

Does anyone have any tips for connecting a Mazda B speedometer cable to a Ford AOD trans? I bought an adapter that allows GM style "threaded end" seedometer cable to connect to Ford trans, and it looks like the threading is the same as the Mazda cable, so I thought I had this problem licked, but the center part (the core cable itself) is much too thick for the GM style connection. Looking for any suggestions...

And for no reason other than your entertainment, here is James Garner pitching a sporty new B2000 SE5.

I sent my Mazda speedo cable to and the converted the tranny end to a ford end. I'm sure they can help you out too.
But the price isn't cheap. It cost around $250. BUT my stock Mazda cluster works perfect now with the swap.

Ouch, that would be a bit steep for me just for the cable, but I definitely want the stock gauge cluster and cruise control to be working. I'm going to get a universal cable kit and see if I can cobble together some kind of working system.

Hey guys, a couple of questions. Do I have an in-tank pump, or a manual fuel pump? The engine is long-since gone, but looking at pics in the Haynes manual it does look familiar. It's an 87 B2600 with a carbed 2.6 Mitsu motor.

I have no fuel coming out of the line with key turned on, so I added an in-line electric pump near the rear fuel filter, and it just clicks away without pumping any fuel. It's not priming, so I am wondering if it just can't suck through the in-tank pump?