1990 B2200 Ground Up

gotcha. Don't know how frame development works. Never built one. It seems like you know what you're doing. So That's why I keep asking. Learning from the old timers you know.

Well by all means ask as many questions as you like. That's how we grow the scene.

If I were building a stock dimensions frame it would be easy. But since I need to change length and front suspension height I have to make changes.

But as I was saying before the body determines the frame. I have to know for sure what the interior cab size will be just to know where to make the step notch come up. Then from there back I have to have enough room for the link bars to be useable.

I will for sure not be using any bad geometry in my 4 link just to save space or for any other reason. This means that there will be no reverse bars, no angled bushings etc. None of these things belongs in a proper setup.

The 4 bars will all be forward and keeping the axle in the center will be a watts link.

I was more concerned about where the back wall of the cab comes out in relation to the notch and the 4 link. This is why I moved the wheelbase back to 132"

I need the upper link bars to be at least 18" to work well with the amount of lift I think I need. This means the lower bars can be up to 24" and still work well if I get the angles right. Not sure if I want the bags on the bars or over the axle.

I do not need a lot of lift so no worries there. But I would like to get a nice smooth ride and good handling.

One more update this morning. I put the project truck in the driveway on Saturday and put it up on stands. I did this to get some measurements off the frame. I was not able to get all the exact measurements I needed so I will be buying the spare frame to use as a guide.

I should have that frame sometime this week. The guy that has it is out of town.

More to come.

Ok I finally went and got the frame clip today. I decided to just get the front part. The part that has all the suspension and mounts.



As you can see this one has power steering just like the project truck I am starting with. This frame is a 1992 B2600i but I know the suspension is the same as the 2200 all the way back to 1986.



I think I have this box sold. By the way, the motor in this truck is a B2600i and it had a rod thru the block. So the head is good. Let me know if any of you need it and I will send you to the guy that has it. It also had a 5 speed trans.

So I got the rearend also. It's a 3.727:1 ratio vs the 3.909:1 ratio of the B2200 rearend. Other than that I think it's the same. I bought the drive line for $15 just in case. Ok, so I got the front of the frame with the steering box, suspension etc, the driveline, rearend and the bench seat for $195.





I probably can't use the seat. The trans hump in the back of my truck will probably be too tall. But I got it just in case. If I have to I will build a bench in the back like the back of a 2 door car and use seat cushions.

So the next step is to get this thing taken apart and get it washed and measured. I will draw it in Cad then start designing my mods to it. There are some things on a suspension you cannot change without having problems.

One of those things that is popular on a Mazda is moving the upper arm mounts up. It will throw the suspension off and you will have a toe change as you raise and lower the suspension. That is unless you keep it all in line.

I will get a CAD drawing done and post it here with details. The plan as of right now is to sort of Z the frame. I would like to raise the suspension up about 2" from stock, then raise the upper arm mounts up and out to the proper location and then build the rest of the pieces.

Let me also add that I am not using this factory frame clip. Just need it for dimensions. I'm also not using the control arms or spindles or anything else.

I will make the arms and use factory spindles with a mod to allow the balljoint on the bottom. I may go with uniballs and if not then Chrysler style screw in balljoints.

More to come.

The 2600i has a different drive shaft, and is not interchangeable with the 2000/2200.
However, you can still use the 2600i rear in a 2000/2200, but you have to change the drive shaft flange.
The flange will swap right over from rear to rear.

That's why I got the shaft. I'm going to run a FE3 with the auto trans that comes behind it so not sure what driveshaft I will need to use. But I thought IF I use this rearend it would be good to have the driveshaft and at least the yoke off the end. It has interchangeable clips instead of the style the B2200 has.

I planned on getting an Isuzu disc brake rearend and narrowing it but not 100% sure on that yet.

I say bag on bar. And kinda suprised u are keeping the frame so simple...

The frame will be far from simple. I will be doing mazda dimensions as far as suspension placement goes but from there it will be radical but functional.

Interested to see what u come up with