1990 B2200 Ground Up

Basically when it comes down to it the front will be factory dimensions, Zd up about 2" all hand built, fabbed control arms etc. The middle will be rectangle tube and the rear will be a big step notch that is more functional with a parallel 4 link and a watts link. The rear of the frame will wrap around the fuel cell I plan to build.

I really need the trans tunnel to be as low as possible so I will make the driveshaft two pieces. Then I can have a slip joint at the back of the "cab" area. I'm not building a crazy setup that takes up the whole bed and renders it useless.

The fuel cell will be under the floor so it does not interfere with anything. As for air tanks and compressors, they will not be in the bed either. Not a fan of throwing everything in the bed.

It's about to start going together faster now that I have a factory frame clip. More pics today if I get this thing apart.

Well I unloaded the rearend and driveshaft and took the front clip to the car wash. I sprayed it with some can degreaser and the washed it.

I brought it home and started taking it apart. Looks like it will take me at least one more evening to get it apart. I have to work late most week days while my shop helper is out of town.

But I will get this thing measured and start building my version of it. I would like to hear opinions on my plan to raise the whole front assembly up 2"

If I do that and move the ball joints to the bottom of the spindles, then raise the upper arm mounts and move them out the proper distance I should have better travel, camber and no bad geometry issues.

I will post a CAD drawing of the front suspension from the side, front and top so you guys can see what I have planned. I will make almost all of it.

As some of you know I am going to use an FE3 engine/auto trans and maybe some driveline pieces as well as probably the fuel sender. I may use the Kia gauge cluster and electrical system as well. But after looking over the Kia steering I decided to keep that part all Mazda B series in dimensions but with all hand fabbed pieces with the exception of the steering box, drag link, idler arm and spindles.

The factory Mazda has good geometry to start with.

I say as long as raising the front suspension doesnt interfere with anything, then do it! I wouldve if i wasnt dealing with a large turbo...

Well I would move up the lower arm mounts 2" the upper arm mounts probably two more than that and the steering box 2" to 4" depending on the sweet spot in the middle of the travel. Its just a thought until I rotate the factory stuff and measure it.

And by the way I appreciate your input.

Have u thought about using rack n pinion?

Yes. And it may come to that. However it would have to be one that is the same width where the steering knuckles are as the factory mazda drag link. If the knuckles are not the same width the toe will change as you raise and lower it. The drag link knuckles have to fall in a line between the upper and lower control arm bushings looking from the front.

Thats why moving the upper arm mounts you have to make sure you also move them out to stay in that line. There is a mustang II rack that has long threaded ends that you can add the tie rods anywhere you want to get the correct length.

Or a Toyota tacoma rack will be close. I used one of those ob my last Mazda. Id have to move the control arm mounts. I have probably one to two weeks to decide. To run the factory mazda power steering box I would have to make a special place for it to mount.

Yup. Up and out

I guess I better investigate the racks and see what I can find.

If I use a box and move it up I will need to make sure I have a short radiator.

First things first. Get the clip apart, get measurements and start drawing. Anyone ever use one of those universal racks?

Ok, I put the front clip up on my frame table today and pulled the shocks, bump stops, sway bar etc. I ended up putting the arms and steering stuff back on for measurements. I used the front cab mount centerline as a zero for measuring.

I also measured the parts in relation to the frame. I also did some checking into the balljoints.

First the swivel of the lower balljoint is 1.5" above the place where it mounts to the spindle. And if I went with a balljoint that comes in from the bottom and assume it would be 1.5" down from the bottom of the spindle that moves the lower balljoint pivot point down 4"

Now if I did that and nothing else I would have some crazy suspension geometry. So I think I will be doing that but with other things to help it end up right.

The lower control arm mount centerline is about 1.5" above the ground layed out. I'd like to move that up 2" to help camber change throughout the travel. Plus I will have to move the upper arm mounts up enough to take out the 4" I am moving the lower balljoint.

The only question then becomes where to move the upper arm mounts out to. They will still have to be in line with the steering knuckles so toe does not change. I can do measurements and drawings and make it work with the factory stuff or I can make a new drag link setup with heim joints. That's probably the best way to go.

If I make the upper arms longer by an inch and a half or so it will also help camber change. I could probably go 2" per side and then move the wheels in an inch each side for better turning.

So I will make a side drawing of the frame with the arm mounts, triangulating the lower arms and as of right now with the factory steering box in place. Maybe I move the steering box up 3" so that it's 1" above where it was to have more clearance for the lower arms. That will probably take some actual work on the test frame to see how it reacts to raising and lowering.

I can build in frame clearance easily for the steering stuff, drag link, tie rods etc.

I will not be using the factory arms so I will have to find an aftermarket arm crossbar that will work. I can then add that width to my drawing.

Since I am changing the lower balljoint to a screw in style I can do the same with the upper. Maybe run a K772 on the upper and a K727 on the lower.

If I raise the frame up 2" and bring the frame rails in 1.5" from where they are now I can easily fit a much larger bag under the front and still have room for shocks. Or I could make the lower arms longer by moving the inner bushings in a couple inches. Hmmm

These are just thoughts and I hope I get some feedback.

It will come down to cycling the suspension or making drawings and cycling the drawings.

I will make some drawings and post them here probably in the morning.