Baggin and ibeam ranger on dubs....SD brackets?

ya that is true. what steering u runnin dario?

Originally posted by 3DAY



My buddy just had his 20s put on his 94 ranger last night and he is running a 245/35-R20. The ONLY clearance problem he is having is his clutch master cylinder that sticks out from the fire wall is rubbing the sidewall of the driver side tire when he is layed out. What have you guys done to eliminate this problem??? When he layed it out last night at my house his tire actaully broke off the nipple that holds the resovoir line to the cylinder off. Is there any way we can turn the cylinder so the nipple is faceing up wards and the feed line going down? Any help would be greatly appreciated since he is driving his truck to RESO.

I broke two clutch mastercylinders on my ranger so I had to move it over on the firewall. Everytime I dropped the front, the tire would hit it and break the nipple on the clutch mastercylinder!

i havent looked under the dash yet. IS there a linkage attached to that clutch master cylinder? I'm just wondering if we can move it over a bit cuz the tires are super close to the outlet line on this one too.
Wheels clear the booster though.

IF YOU DO USE THE DJM BEAMS AND YOU NOTCH THEM MAKE SURE THAT YOU REINFORCE THEM VERY WELL BECAUSE THEY WILL SNAP IN HALF IF NOT REINFORCED

clint got a pic of how u moved it?

How did you move it over? I just said screw it to movin it, instead i bought a whole new clutch set up with the resivoir (sp?) right above the pedal, so all i will have is a line coming outta the firewall to the clutch itself...eliminated that whole master cylinder problem.

I don't have a pic right now, but I'll post one soon! I moved mine down and closer to the frame so that the wheel won't hit it. I did have to change the pedal linkage though!

Edited: 12/6/2005 8:32:30 AM by rangerrudy

The whole at the bottom is where the mastercylinder goes threw the firewall instead of right behind the wheel!!

ah ok. on my buddies were probgona use a diff mastercylinder...

i did a stock floor bd on my first ranger it was a 90 ranger reg cab short box on an i-beam chassis, all i can say is never again!! to much werk to much hassle, people make things difficult for them selves by the time u hack the hell outa the front end of that truck jus to lay on 20's u gotta think was it all worth it? and if anything ever breaks (ie: tie rod, pitman arm, i beams etc) and u right off ur ride or werse and kill someone ya kno?so once u get this truck bagged on beams with dubs and u can't clear the wheels at full lift whatcha gonna do then? or if u bag on the radius arm which woul be a better choice for lift, ur gonna have mad bump steer!! i used a toy front clip for mine and built a custom chassis from the control arms back, it was alot less time consuming, alot safer, its built how i wanted it and looks a hell of alot better then a chopped up front end! My 94 bodydropranger 2 1/2 raised floor the rest stock floor bd lays out on 18's with no drop spindles it has 8" hydroz in the front and gives me about 13" of lift...this was jus my input maybe it will save u some time... happy playing