AIM/Chassis Tech Discussion - Get Help

Originally posted by joemorrow



BALLJOINTSThere is no right or wrong way to install the upper ball joint. It will function the same and be just as strong whether its bolted above or below the arm. In fact, by changing the location of the ball joint you can slightly change your camber curve.



WRONG!!!! running the upper ball joint bolted to the bottom af the control arm is unsafe. GM designed it to go in from the top for a reason. If the bolts/rivets/whatever holding the upper ball joint to the arm were to become loose or break the ball joint will be captured in the hole by the control arm. If it is bolted to the bottom of the control arm and the bolts break there is nothing to keep the ball joint in place and it will go where ever it wants, like into a firewall or fender.

Originally posted by quartermilecrazy



Originally posted by joemorrow



BALLJOINTSThere is no right or wrong way to install the upper ball joint. It will function the same and be just as strong whether its bolted above or below the arm. In fact, by changing the location of the ball joint you can slightly change your camber curve.



WRONG!!!! running the upper ball joint bolted to the bottom af the control arm is unsafe. GM designed it to go in from the top for a reason. If the bolts/rivets/whatever holding the upper ball joint to the arm were to become loose or break the ball joint will be captured in the hole by the control arm. If it is bolted to the bottom of the control arm and the bolts break there is nothing to keep the ball joint in place and it will go where ever it wants, like into a firewall or fender.

Rich,I do not disagree with you at all. I agree that is the way GM designed them. I am only posting the info below for readers to view an alternative. Actually, nothing that all of us do to trucks is the way GM designed them, but it is done anyway. Personally, I think that the factory sprung vehicles are safer than air/slammed vehicles, but yes, we should do everything possible to be as safe as can be.

Thank you for your posting. I do not disagree with it at all.

Just wanted to Chime in and say thanks to Joe for answering a few questions I had for my tacoma. He went above and beyond to help me out. Thanks again for the quick response.

Originally posted by dragnlow



Just wanted to Chime in and say thanks to Joe for answering a few questions I had for my tacoma. He went above and beyond to help me out. Thanks again for the quick response.

Thanks Dog.. You know how to get a hold of me. You can post the question on the forum and I see it and answer. No different than years past, it is just that I did not go to the forums because of trash talk that does nothing for anyone. Happy to help anyone that has a question about any Air Suspension issue.

Thanks for the posting,

I read the write up from Mike Finnegan about your Dakota complete (front & rear) kit and I have a couple questions.

It states the arms let the truck lay frame on 20's.

Do your arms help to provide a narrower track width?

Is that with stock spindles?

Here's a link to the article I saw.

http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0803st_dodge_dakota_rear_airbag_suspension_kit/index.html

Originally posted by mreed



I read the write up from Mike Finnegan about your Dakota complete (front & rear) kit and I have a couple questions.

It states the arms let the truck lay frame on 20's. Do your arms help to provide a narrower track width?

Is that with stock spindles?

Here's a link to the article I saw.

http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0803st_dodge_dakota_rear_airbag_suspension_kit/index.html

Mreed

The arms will allow the truck to lay the front engine crossmember on 28" tires using stock spindles. They do not narrow the track width of the truck. 20's, 22's and possibly 24's will fit as long as the tire is no more than 28" tall. Rim offset and backspacing is very critical so make sure you measure correctly before buying wheels.

Also, you would need Spring Pocket Eliminators to allow you to use the #2600 bags. #2500 will NOT lift the front end. For those that wonder why it takes so much psi, (front raises slow and rides rough) You need a larger diameter bag. #2500 =6.25 #2600 =7.25 #3800 =8.50 and will lift ANY front end at lower psi. #3800 will only work on fullsize frames

Joe, what's the specs and price on your 2600 size triple convo bags. Got a customer that they would be the optimum choice for his application. I have used your spindles numerous times with no probs in the past but have also replaced your compressors and valves numerous times because they were bad. The valves were always the spool ones. The last were 4-5 years ago though so cant speak to recently. The customer and I are possibly willing to give you a chance though because nobody else makes what we need and I am impressed with what seems like a sincere effort to improve your product.

Originally posted by STLowburban



Joe, what's the specs and price on your 2600 size triple convo bags. Got a customer that they would be the optimum choice for his application. I have used your spindles numerous times with no probs in the past but have also replaced your compressors and valves numerous times because they were bad. The valves were always the spool ones. The last were 4-5 years ago though so cant speak to recently. The customer and I are possibly willing to give you a chance though because nobody else makes what we need and I am impressed with what seems like a sincere effort to improve your product. Cody, yes we acknowledged a problem 4 or 5 years ago on valves, but we never have had an abnormal amount of compressor problems. Air Suspension continues to evolve.

Triple #2600 are 7.25" diameter and travel is 14". Email me for your prices.

Thank you for your posting,

Joe, please get back to me on the email i sent you
Thanks
-Tyler

nothings changed, this is a thread a guy started after being "hooked" up by the new and improved Aim http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/project-shaim-to-faim-371126/