SFBD square with a Cummins and custom chassis

went through your whole build and mad props bro... truck is looking great...

Thanks a lot man!! And welcome to duallyScene.

painless prolly has some sort of plug and play wireloom for the cummins chevy setup , another thing you could do is use the dodge wiring front to back (include the fusebox and lighting too) and lengthen the wiring / change the pigtails where needed
that way you could even use the gauges of the dodge maibe even the complete dash and columb
does the dodge heater and cooler setup go under the dash or in the enginebay?

I had really thought about using all of the dodge wiring but the more I dig into this mess of a donor truck the more issues I find with it. I'm about 99% sure this truck has been wrecked and now has half ton body and wiring on the 1 ton chassis and running gear. The wiring is just a jumbled mess. Not only is it the half ton gas engine body and wiring but some has done a 1998 dash swap on it making the mess or wire even worse. The good news to all of this is from what I can see the engine and trans wiring has basically been untouched.
As for the ac and heat box I'm really hoping to be able to reuse it. It's all self contained under the dash but like the rest of the truck someone has done a hack job on it also. They even have a set of needle nose vice grips attached to the hot cold adjustment shaft to turn it lol.

Awesome build! Do you have the 47re or 47rh tranny? Cant rember if they went to that in 95 1/2 or 96 1/2. The rh is manual i think you can just use a switch for lock up like everyone used to on the 700r4. Suncoast makes a controler for the re and if you use there valve body you can have engine braking.

must be a coincidence but just yesterday i seen on tv how on discovery channel they used a chassis vin number and registratrion from a wrecked truck to to mount parts of a stolen truck on to make it apear legal
it was 5 hours work for them and they made 7000 dollar profit

maibe you be wize to check the engine number with the police before they impound the chevy because the engine is stolen

Thanks 656MX and welcome to DS. I have the 47RH. I can control it on switches but it realies on my tps and line pressure to determine when to lock up the converter and shift into OD. I have the toggle switches in my donor truck now just to play with the lock up. I could run the trans with no PCM but I'd have to run some pressure switches in my test port to tell it when to shift and lock up. The problem then is it will be a pain to adjust it and it'll change gears and lock up on pressure and not so much on speed. Really hoping I can make the PCM work.

As for the stolen stuff I might have been more worried about it but I saw all the reciepts where the guy just rebuilt the engine with his name matching the title and his actual name on his license. I just can't see him making any money on a stolen engine after putting over 5K in the engine, trans, and getting the truck back together just to sell it for a lot less than that lol. Plus around here no one would ever check the engines casting number. I've never had anyone check a casting number. I'm not even sure the casting number would have been stored in any system as to ownership in the mid 90's either. Good looking out though.

I did go to the shop today and picked up my front clip. I'm gunna try to get it all fit up and make sure everything lines back up after the bd. I'll snap a couple pix with the front clip back on it as soon as I get it on there again. While I was at the shop my bro and I did a little tweaking on my injector pump and pulled some power out of it. Getting close to needing some aftermarket parts if I go any further. My pyrometer is reading 1350 degrees F now when I really get into it. I've heard it isn't good to get that warm or warmer more than just a couple seconds.

I went out this afternoon and got the front right side bagged. I didn't really make a bucket. I more just cut the inner part of the lower out and dropped the whole thing with 1/4" plate. I had to lower the bag 3" into the arm to it to lay out. That seems pretty far to me. I just tacked everything together. Once I get it back to the shop on level concrete I'll check everything and adjust it if needed and than finish weld and plate all of it. Not sure why but I cut about 1.5" off my upper bag pocket and still when it lays out rocker the upper bag plate is only about 1/2" from the lower. With the bag collapse height being 3" I guess it may end up needing that much of a cup. I'm using all stock components though including spindles also. I kinda figured after a 4.75" body drop I'd need about a 2" cup max. I just hope the lowers don't hang down to low now. I'll try to post up some pix tomorrow. It was dark when I finished up tonight.

Anyone know the cheapest place to get some after market cab bushings?? My stocks are about toast and the weight of the cab is smashing them down terribly.

man i wouldnt go cheap on body mounts.. if you need something for temp just cut some out of wood till you can buy some new ones. ive done it before works good. just messure you stock ones and take away 1/4 to 5/16 for smash..