DadandSonEyes 1989 MAZDA B2600i 4X4 Cab Plus continues HELP

I was told that the MAZDA B2600i will NEVER START, if the STARTER is lagging a bit, it doesn't get to high enough "turn over RPM" AND it can't start up, along with the timing being off a bit because it is a FIRST START UP.

Is this true ?

DadandSonEyes-

also, WE NEED a pOWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY !!! CAN'T FIND ANYWHERE, EXCEPT THE DEALER FOR $93.00!! I Looked on RockAuto.com and on WHOLESALEAUTOPARTS.com, bought a $40.00 chrome one. got it and it says fits GM and other etc.. WONT' WORK. I tried and the grove on the power sterring pump shaft is to WIDE. The Grove on the Pulley I have is more narrow.

UGH.

It's just a blasted power steeting pump PULLEY -- UGH... anyone know where to get these cheap/new ?

DadAndSonEyes- Raleigh, NC

All ground wires in place and tightened? How about the #10 black ground wire that goes from the rear of the intake to the firewall?



Could be a bad starter......you did hand turn the engine while you were building it (after the head and timing chain was installed) to make sure you had no interference issues, right?

Sounds like your slave and/or clutch master cylinder are shot.....easy to replace and not expensive at all when you buy them at your local parts stores or even better, RockAuto.

Don't "bench bleed" the clutch MC, just install it and then bleed it with the bleeder on the slave cylinder.

I think the #1 spark plug tower on the dist. cap needs to be at the 9:00 o-clock position.......also, that rotor can go on in 3 different positions (triangular post it fits on!) so you need to make sure the dist. is installed correctly for this to work exactly right.......I'll see what I can dig up on instructions for this.

Meanwhile, here is a couple of pics of the cap and plug wires on the B2600i I just put together....









You line up these 2 marks on the dist. before you install it while holding the dist. housing in the exact position it should be in when it's fully inserted. The rotor should spin a little as the cam gear and dist. gear mesh together.......and remember, the motor should be at TDC (HB timing mark on the zero of the timing scale while on the compression stroke for #1 cyl.) when installing the dist.

Thanks, working on this now.... distributor and checking grounds. YES, WE Hand Turned the Engine with main crank bolt on and it seemed to turn smoothly with normal resistance, checked and re-checked everything a dozen times. crank and all gears and chain and cam were all exactly at TDC as book specified and your pictures matched.

t/shooting now..... 5:56pm Eastern Standard Time.

DadandSonEyes-

Thanks, working on this now.... distributor and checking grounds. YES, WE Hand Turned the Engine with main crank bolt on and it seemed to turn smoothly with normal resistance, checked and re-checked everything a dozen times. crank and all gears and chain and cam were all exactly at TDC as book specified and your pictures matched.

t/shooting now..... 5:56pm Eastern Standard Time.

DadandSonEyes-

my distributor cap is designed opposite of yours. My #1 plug is at the 12:00 O-clock position. There is a tiny #1 on the distributor cap there. On the opposide side( 6 O clock) there is a #0. There are two screws ( little silver phillips screws) holding it on. They are in the exact Opposite positions as yours in your photos.

My distributor cap goes on only one way, If I rotate it 180 degrees, the screw holes won't line up anymore. I'm beginning to wonder if my head and valves are damaged now. UGH ( $$$$$ ). ALL BRAND NEW. When I put the head on, I aligned the CAM and TIMING Gear exactly at TDC as well as the Crank /Timing Gear,etc. as well as the Balance shaft sprockets and gears. I have the #1 Piston at TDC. Aligned all gears and chain and put head on with CAM / TIMING GEAR ALL POINTING STRAIGHT UP AT TDC, EXACTLY like my diagrams and photo's. Did it exactly like pictures in my CHILTON AND HAYNES Manuals and Photo's and diagrams you provided. So, I don't understand how they could be damaged or bent or those kinds of issues. It would seem that something isn't right with my distributor. ( hope that is all it is ). It is possible that the cam would have TWO TDC possibilities when installing the head. One right, One wrong way, with camslot pointing at 12:000 O'Clock ?

I see the grounding wires are all tight and secure. Still working on this.... ugh

If you hand turned the engine and didn't hit a "stop" then you should be fine there.......it's in the dist. install I'll bet.

Let me see if I can explain it better......
First, disregard the cast in numbers on your dist cap......they're not for the plug wires at all......unless they are numbered from 1-4.

Is your electrical plug for the dist pointing to around the 10:30 position if you view the dist. from the driver's side fender? Are the 2 mounting hole "slots" positioned where they are nearly centered over the threaded hole that the hold down bolts thread into?

Do me a favor and tell me what "clock" position the rotor (remove the dist. cap) is when you have the timing mark on the harmonic balancer (HB) lined up with the zero on the front cover's timing scale.
Then turn the engine over by hand one revolution, and tell me where the rotor is pointing then.......the 2 different positions of the rotor will be directly opposite from each other, but just give me the "clock" positions for both positions.

Thanks ! We are working on this now.....

There is a tiny little V-Shaped groove/line on the REAR Crank Pulley that marks the timing. is that the same as the HB line being on zero? When I have the Crank aligned on the intake stroke at TDC? The front of the crank pulley also has 4 pre-drilled "dimples" on it, but I don't see any other markings on it.

DadandSonEyes