twisted minis
+1y
Its a strut rod. It keeps your lower arm from moving front to back while you are driving. Without it, you will destroy something, wether it be the arm, the bolt, or the part of the frame it mounts to, something will fail because it is only attached at that single frame pivot then. If you want to remove them you need to triangulate the lower arms. But you should be able to lay out on a 25" tall tire, give or take, without them hitting anything.
Its a strut rod. It keeps your lower arm from moving front to back while you are driving. Without it, you will destroy something, wether it be the arm, the bolt, or the part of the frame it mounts to, something will fail because it is only attached at that single frame pivot then. If you want to remove them you need to triangulate the lower arms. But you should be able to lay out on a 25" tall tire, give or take, without them hitting anything.
josh
+1y
x2 to everything seth said.
but your upper ball joint does look to be binding. and if your strut rod is hitting on the pitman arm you may be able to space it down a bit with like a spacer under the control arm. sethe would be the one to ask on that. im thinking it could throw the geometry off on that side but im not 100% sure. i ditch the strut bar and triangulate the mower arms on the 2 ive done and on mine.
josh
x2 to everything seth said.
but your upper ball joint does look to be binding. and if your strut rod is hitting on the pitman arm you may be able to space it down a bit with like a spacer under the control arm. sethe would be the one to ask on that. im thinking it could throw the geometry off on that side but im not 100% sure. i ditch the strut bar and triangulate the mower arms on the 2 ive done and on mine.
josh
twisted minis
+1y
A spacer under the struts would work. But I would do it to each side, and try to keep it under 1/2" thick. And I wouldn't stack washers to do it. You would still adjust the caster, and the 1/2" spacer wouldn't put enough stress on the bolts to shear them.
A spacer under the struts would work. But I would do it to each side, and try to keep it under 1/2" thick. And I wouldn't stack washers to do it. You would still adjust the caster, and the 1/2" spacer wouldn't put enough stress on the bolts to shear them.
dragginmazda86 (dave)
+1y
^^ I had to space my strut rods on my truck due to hitting to pitman arm. I went to the junk yard and got the strut rods from another mazda and cut them so I just had the part with the two bolt holes, worked perfect and the rods are about 1/2 thick also. I ahve plans to triangulate them before I get the truck back on the street though.
dropped90(justin)
+1y
ready to start weldin bag plates back in. got it layin crossmember on both corners. itll lay a little harder then that after i run these tires down and go to a smaller series tire.
-justin
-justin
mazdawg(mikey)
+1y
i see you got your binding issue fixed. its coming along in record time. hopefully in time for the big show.
dropped90(justin)
+1y
yeh man i pie cut one arm. dropped it and nothing happened. went away for awhile. took a break and chilled the frustration and came back looked at it and seen the upper arm was barely touching the inner fender. cut it out and vwuala. crossmember. now im sitting here looking at the bag and plates and trying to figure out how to get it all in there. i got the re6's and these things are big. im hoping to have no rubbing issues. if so i may just notch the frame and plate it. im gonna have to run the upper bag plate at the top of the frame, thats the only way i can get it stuffed in there.
-justin
-justin