99+ ford camber,,,,spindles?

Edited: 9/12/2005 9:51:13 PM by JDugan4859

Brandon was confused when I talked to him, surprise there right?

u make no sense...if u rasie the uppers only all it does is put the upper and lowers all on the same radius....with ethe lowers not changing location and the rack being even with the lowers and the tie rod ends being at the same location how will the toe be effected...it just seems to me that the alighnment maight not even be affected as long as the uppers are positioned right above the factory mounts...i am in the process of fabriacting some mounts that will bolt on and raise the uppers directly above and not hit the power steering..they might not make a total fix but i am under the imression that it will make a huge difference and it would be a cheap and easy way to do it instead of changing the whole front clip...i mean there are upper control arm mount raises for f150s and it helps a lot.....think about it.....no only that but i have done it on an f150, a 01 explorer sport 2 door and it worked perfect....

I actually just worked on a ranger with the upper mounts raised two inches in the way you described.(Couldbelower) While it does help the camber issue some(does not eliminate it) It makes the truck get positive camber when it is at higher lift. So you have to roll really low to avoid outer tire wear. I can get you some pics if you are interested in seeing what it does. Later.

Edited: 10/5/2005 8:33:22 AM by bdroppeddak

never mind i came back home and looked at my chassis engineering book and i was mistaken at what i read, but the tierod does still need to be parallel with the lower arm, just be in line with the upper and lower arms like dans pic.

NO CAMBER OR TOE PROBLEMS HERE AT ANY HEIGHT

http://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/416200470657AM57171.jpg
http://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/416200470801AM46611.jpg
http://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/15200565654PM94171.jpg

I raised my uppers 3 inches and it did cause some toe in but I raised the rack 3/4 inch and it helped correct it but my uppers are also longer than stock

it might give u some positive camber but its straight becuase right now i am forced to drive aroud 4 wheel drive style to keep the camber away...i dont really care about driving all the way up in fact i want to drive as low as posible and rigth now the camber is restricting me....if anyone has any other pics like u rangerlover...let me see please....i am thinking about secting my spindles and i am even thinking about casting my own spindles that will bring the control arms closer to each other....

as far as that truck on kustomwerks site..i dont have that much room because my steering pump is in the way..also i think that frame is also raised up in the front and the motor is lowered....its really nice work...but not exactly what i am trying to do...also good point on the no toe problems...

you guys telling me raising the upper arms has nothing to do with toe are just plain WRONG. this changes the geometry and when the knuckle in the steering isnt in the line of the bushings the toe changes while raising or lowering. I dont mean the toe changes when you raise the mounts, like then go get it aligned. I mean the toe can be dead on when layed out and either toe in or toe out as you raise it. the ONLY way to stop this from happening is to raise the uppers AND move them along the line of the bushings and the steering knuckle.
I realize that 90% of you dont understand what I mean by having the knuckle in the line of the steering.

think of this and try very hard to imagine it. think of the front of the truck with no body on it. you are in front of it looking back at the frame level. on top the frame you have one bushing for the upper arms and down below that you have the lower control arm bushing, then in the middle you have the steering rack or the tie rods from the box and the main long rod that goes across on a box type steering. well, the balljoint onn the steering rack or tie rod thats right under the frame MUST and I cant stress MUST enough, be in the line from the uppr bushing down to the lower bushing. if you move it out or in just a little the toe will change from layed out to raised up. this is not opinion or something that you can just say " I have no problems, mine works great" its geometry and the laws of physics dont cease to apply in your driveway or on your truck. I dont think I can explain it any more clearly than that, Im white trash as hell and dont have a full grip on the complete English language.
now the toe may not change a bunch and you can move the upper mounts in or out to keep the bushings in line, but just simply moving the upper mounts up will change this, its simple geometry. if you dont believe me, go get a book on suspension and find out for yourself. but please dont send a post saying that im wrong, im quite certain im right since Ive read MANY books on suspension and have done several setups from scratch.

i know u dont want to be wrong but what u are saying is all great except when you move the uppers up the lowers stay the same..now considering the tie rrod ends are connected to the bottom or the spindle...the also dont move from where they were before...i am not sure how to explain this any differently...maybe i am missing something but everything u siad tells me nothing. i recently finished a kinematics of mechanims coarse learning about all types of suspension systems and geometrical mechanisms....i have computer software to test differnt mechanisms and i simulated the control arms and my point was proven that the toe stays the same....what do u think about a smaller spindle...whats ur oponion???