99+ ford camber,,,,spindles?

yes, try raising or lowering the truck while going down the highway, it will jump from one lane to the next, its VERY dangerous. I mean completely scare you as it moves and almost throws you in the ditch or worse, oncoming traffic. its so easy to make it right geometrically, plus why do something halfway when you cam do it right? if you cant afford to Z the frame and raise all the mounts, at least move the uppers out some to keep the line in the same place.

what are the upper ball joints like on the toys spindles and the mustang two...are the same as ranger or do they need to be replaced to a different style with a bolt and what about the breaks....that seems like an easy fix compared to zing the frame why dosent anyone ever do that?i mena it follows my same idea as cutting down the factory spindle..

the upper balljoints for the Toyota spindles will be GM long travel balljoints.
the Mustang II use a balljoint thats compatible with the Mustang II suspension. when you get rid of the Ranger spindle theres no need for a bolt type balljoint.
as far as Zing the frame goes, the whole reason to Z the frame is to lay it out flat and get the lower crossmember up level or higher than the stock frame rails.
the Brakes will be whatever fits the spindle. its best to get the entire Toyota spindle, rotor, and brake assembly at a wrecking yard, or get the Mustang II from several places that sell that sort of setup for street rods. remember Mustang II aftermarket parts can be ordered with whatever bolt pattern you need.

is the radius of radius of teh rangr ball joints the same as the s10 long travel balljoints
....will they easly press in to the stock uppers

Use screw in uppers and get 30 degree of travel out of the ball joint up or down.

so the question never got answered...are there any type of spindles that you can use the take the factory ball joints and are smaller..i think i might try to cut down the factory spindles...

no, the factory upper balljoint takes an oddball balljoint that cant be used on any other spindle. the best way to make this swap for me anyway is to develop some arms that use a toyota or mustang II spindle. im working on it guys.

Originally posted by KUSTOMWERKS



NO CAMBER OR TOE PROBLEMS HERE AT ANY HEIGHT

http://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/416200470657AM57171.jpghttp://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/416200470801AM46611.jpghttp://www.kustomfab.com/projects/ridephotos/15200565654PM94171.jpg

I'm not trying to be an ass but w/o having the tie rods hooked up to the spindle, how do you know what the TOE is going to be like? And are you planning to mount from under the steering knuckle or REALLY notching the frame for them?

its a simple fact of suspension geometry that the steering knuckles must be in line with the control arm bushings to keep the toe the same throught travel, no matter who did what.
by the way I like the looks of the Kustomwerks parts. I know how hard it is t make suspension parts and they make some nice parts. see im not a dick either.

Edited: 10/4/2005 8:34:35 AM by Mr Mufakka

Here's a really crude drawing of what Mike is talking about, keeping it all in line. (or so I believe).